Just as a note - the red O-rings probably aren't the best choice for what you're looking to do. You may want to email Tim about getting those powdercoated. You could use O-rings if you really wanted to, but you'd have to glue them into place.
Just as a note - the red O-rings probably aren't the best choice for what you're looking to do. You may want to email Tim about getting those powdercoated. You could use O-rings if you really wanted to, but you'd have to glue them into place.
I say flat black bcause it seems to me that it would mre resemble a sith saber, instead of being shiny and flashy, I would say discreet weapon of one of the most dangerous species in the galaxy.
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Tim wont do dual powdercoating on one piece. Its far too difficult and the end result isnt guarranteed to be successful. However instead you can ask for the grooves to be machines a little deeper, as to hold the O-Rings a little better. It will cost you a bit more but it would most likely be worth glueing anything to the hilt.Originally Posted by Kant Lavar
I can at least get a quote on the custom machining, but I'm not too worried about the o-rings staying put. I have a saber with a type 4 main body that I put o-rings on. With the alternating wide and narrow groves, it is 3-1-3-1-3-1-3-1-3 for the o-rings. The sets of 3 won't move at all and while the singles seem as if they could get loose, they haven't yet. Mostly this is because the o-rings have to be stretched a little to fit in the grooves.Tim wont do dual powdercoating on one piece. Its far too difficult and the end result isnt guarranteed to be successful. However instead you can ask for the grooves to be machines a little deeper, as to hold the O-Rings a little better. It will cost you a bit more but it would most likely be worth glueing anything to the hilt.
If they do start to come loose, I think that 2 drops of CA per o-ring should hold them in place. Remember that the glue won't be going on the metal, it will be going on the powdercoat. If CA won't stick to the rubber o-rings, I will use "Shoe-Goo" which will. (I used "Shoe-Goo" to put the wiper blades on my genuine Heiland Vader prop saber about 5 years ago, and they haven't shifted at all.)
For the record, o-rings make for a very secure and comfortable grip.
Since you've decided on the color already, I won't vote for wet black (even though I like it better)
I will answer the other question though, and tell you to go ahead and use the MR board to power your LED. It's alot easier to utilize the board for what it's designed to do then try and worry about internal space, what type switch, and all that jazz.
Can't wait to see it.
As for your red orings, mabye a red heat shrink is a better choice as it will hug the saber better, you could even get one with adheisive on the inside.
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I would say flat black as well.
As far as the LED goes, I agree with Arkai. Drive it right off the board. I've only used three FX boards, but when I tested them, they all put out more than 1A. They'll drive a red or red/orange Lux III just fine. The Anakin conversion I just finished a couple weeks ago runs a R/O right off the board, and it's plenty bright.
This is a red o lux III run of a vader board
and a nice example of gloss black (and later gloss red)
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...ighlight=vyper
I just happen to be trying to make this same call. I am going to get Main Body style 4 and have the ridges and top piece powercoated black. Bouncing back and forth between the blacks. I am going for a Jedi look. Do you really think these make a difference in Sith/Jedi looks?
Also was anyone ever disappointed upon receiving a flat or wet due to it not being what they expected (besides the one guy talking about removing the wet finish). I can only look at so many pictures as I imagine the wet black looking vastly different in different lighting conditions.
I like flat black a lot and it does indeed show scratches less but the wet black is beautiful.
Here is a Leia saber I powder coated with super durable wet black.
It does indeed show scratches easy though. After PC I was cleaning the grooves up with a small file. The file slipped a couple of times and lightly ran across the PC. It left little scratches and made me re-do the PC. This time however I used tape around each groove as I was filing it so I wouldn't scratch the finish.
Either one will look good and its more of what you want to do with it. If its going to be more of a show than play piece wet black is beautiful but for a rugged use all the time saber flat black is great.
Flat black is very menacing looking so it may fit your sith style better.
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