Force FX Construction Set to LedEngin RGBA, 15-color configuration with Corbin driver

[dgdve]

Hey Welcome! now.. onto your question

Can you make up a wire diagram and describe your issue alittle better? also... NEVER give the 616 board (joe jedi/construction kit) 6v.. it doesnt handle like its "standard" Mr/Hfx brethren.. your question about resistoring depends on your source and of course what your powering.. so until thats worked out.. but get us that diag and I'm sure it will get figued out(they're pretty good at that round here'). I hope that helps.

(just make it up in paint or something it doesnt need to look pretty)

[Komakon]

This is almost exactly what I want. But I would like to give it the Extend/Retrack feature as well as the little 2.9V-3.5V@30mA LED light, clash, motion and so forth.
I am not worried about changing the color and would like the sound from just the red on the "Joe Jedi" to work.
I am pretty good with wire and construction, not so good with lingo and terms =]

[Matt Thorn]

I am new to this and I am using the Joe Jedi config here.
Is it possible at all to use a DPDT momentary illuminated switch. If so what resistor do I use?

Nope. It has to be latching, and it has to be DPDT.

Another thing is. I have a 4AA pack at 6v will this work some way?

No. You will fry the board, guaranteed. IIRC, even a 5V voltage regulator will not protect it from frying.

I feel bad saying this (over and over again), since I'm the one who started this thread and made the diagrams, but I strongly recommend against using a Joe Jedi board. They are just too fragile and too quirky. I would rather use a board from an inexpensive 2010 Electronic Lightsaber than use a Joe Jedi board.

[Komakon]

Nope. It has to be latching, and it has to be DPDT.

No. You will fry the board, guaranteed. IIRC, even a 5V voltage regulator will not protect it from frying.

I feel bad saying this (over and over again), since I'm the one who started this thread and made the diagrams, but I strongly recommend using a Joe Jedi board. They are just too fragile and too quirky. I would rather use a board from an inexpensive 2010 Electronic Lightsaber than use a Joe Jedi board.

Thanks for the tip =]
I found a 3aaa pack at 4v. Should I still drop the project and find a cheep lightsaber with sound?

[dgdve]

NEVER drop a project... just maybe use the joe jedi in a build where perfection isnt the goal.. like a stunt just beat it up.. but its still a good board and your fine at 4.5v.. remember right out of the box it takes 3aa(4.5v).. just DONT use more... use normal cheap batteries like its designed for and your fine.. but think about what Matt said.. thats the guy who started this basically saying its difficult(not impossible) to pull this off how you really think it will turn out. If you want to do it, once you make the changes outlined above (make sure you also get the latching version of the driver add on board).. your fine, but it may just not have the durability you would expect.. words like "touchy", "glitchy", "quirky".. yeah thats not good right.. food for thought.. (but it depends on if your building a pvc junker to throwdown with the boys or a shiney gleaming jewel built in a lab never to see human hands).

Personally though and Matt didnt say abandon/drop the project.. just maybe think about your other real options.. but I never drop anything... it will get used.. eventually(especially if it works

EDIT!: you know...
(unless your previously purchased these items) you could actually just evilbay an old generic Sith MR/Hfx Soundcard and run your main led directly from it, saves space/money, win/win)

[Jedi-Loreen]

I feel bad saying this (over and over again), since I'm the one who started this thread and made the diagrams, but I strongly recommend (against?) using a Joe Jedi board. They are just too fragile and too quirky. I would rather use a board from an inexpensive 2010 Electronic Lightsaber than use a Joe Jedi board.

I think that's what you mean, Matt?

[Komakon]

Ahh, I see. I deff want to be able to hit/dule stuff with my lightsaber.
So l need to get a latching switch. On the LED for the switch, what Ohm Resistor do I use? I know it's r=v/c < But I still haven't gotten the conversion thing down.
Also!
How do I wire the Constant Current LED driver to flux, retract/expand on the LEDs< the two of them?

[Azmaria Dei]

the store resistor chart has the info you need on which resistor you need for that switch. just plug in what switch it is and which battery voltage you're using and it'll tell you AND show you a simple wiring diagram too. also, a 3AAA pack is either 3.6V if you're using Nimh or 4.5V if you're using alkalines.

[Invisas1979]

Hey Matt

I know you want this thread to pass away but I have three of these boards still and though the boards are not so strong as a MR board, if you're only running 3.7v for sound the board should be ok right.

When you say they are quirky what do you mean?

It's an expensive option but If you were to direct drive a 3-5watt led and separately drive the sound board would this work using a DPDT switch and a led driver?

The led out put on a joejedi is the same as a 1watt led which is why they're not good for 3watt leds and come with a 1watt as standard.

Will a single recharge port charge two separate single cell battery packs?

[dgdve]

Hey Matt

I know you want this thread to pass away but I have three of these boards still and though the boards are not so strong as a MR board, if you're only running 3.7v for sound the board should be ok right.

When you say they are quirky what do you mean?

It's an expensive option but If you were to direct drive a 3-5watt led and separately drive the sound board would this work using a DPDT switch and a led driver?

The led out put on a joejedi is the same as a 1watt led which is why they're not good for 3watt leds and come with a 1watt as standard.

Will a single recharge port charge two separate single cell battery packs?

Let me try to help having blown my share of these chasing Gravy around everywhere with all the amazing mods and things you CAN do with this board there are just things the board may do.. once.. or a few times.. but not at the level of reliability we want built into our sabers.. When I'm showing off my saber if it fails.. I fail(what tha'), do you see why I dont recomend this board for your awesome display piece but I do wholeheartedly think this board makes a great saber.. but you must be mindful of its limitations and dont just assume that since other MR/Hfx boards could do it.. this one can(cool?)

now let me see if we can figure this out...

Quirky.. well yes and no.. I had some work awesome and others sucked (good luck).. also if it MUST BE SAID... - dgdve says - "it takes 4.5v (3aa) right out of the box, NEVER EVER EVER give it more than that, NEVER USE RECHARGABLES.. just use regular batteries from the store because thats within its design and basically its max safe tolerance's".. the board itself is fine and sounds fine and works/last fine as long as your careful with your voltage.. so I dont see why you wouldnt use it.. isolate it from the hilt, hook up some switches(easy) and have fun!! <--thats what its all about-- I hope that helps (hold on I'll get you a link for making battery packs for your general info but DO NOT USE RECHARGABLES with the 616... it will fry I promise you) and yes one recharge port with work with one battery pack no matter how many or how few cells

Here's the link on how to make a battery pack plus there's a pretty good video by X-wing on it so, http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...ry-Pack-Making