hello
I have a question about the schema version 0.5.
Here I see that need a second sensor clash!
Where can I take and what should I take?
Thank you very much
littel question!!!
hello
I have a question about the schema version 0.5.
Here I see that need a second sensor clash!
Where can I take and what should I take?
Thank you very much
Hi Matt
Slightly off thread here but I have a couple of 616 boards lying around doing nothing. Do I need the relay if a got myself a couple led drivers for them.
Ideally what I'd like is to use the 616 with a 5 watt led and two lith ion battery set up.
I'd need to resistor the led positive still. But other than that it should be fairly straight forward yeah?
Obi-Wan: "If you spent as much time practicing your saber techniques as you did your wit, you'd rival Master Yoda as a swordsman"
Anakin: " I thought I already did"
Obi-Wan: "Only in your mind, my very young apprentice"
It;s currently out of stock, but this is what you want:Originally Posted by Maitre-Yoda74
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Cl...nsor-P485.aspx
There's always a bigger fish.
Not sure what you mean by LED drivers. Are you talking about the TCSS drivers? Either way, you can't give the LED (or driver) enough power directly from the 616 board, so you need to do something. A relay is the most reliable solution, IMO, but others have used DPDT switches. Any way you do it, you're going to run in to some kind of problem. It's just a hard board to work with. I still have one Construction Set I have to convert for a friend, but I'm planning on using it to convert an old Anakin ATOC the way LDM did, and that will (hopefully) be my last 616 project.
There's always a bigger fish.
Do you have a video of your setup working?
Sorry, I don't. I killed the board (two boards, actually) by going over the power limit, so while the LED works fine, the sound is really, really quiet. Like, safe-for-the-library quiet. (Overpowering it apparently zaps a transistor that acts as an amplifier for the sound.) There's not much to see on video, anyway. I could have sworn I uploaded photos of each of the 15 colors somewhere on the forum, but I can't find them. The shades depend on the resistors you use, and inevitably some colors overlap considerably. Keep in mind that you can do this same multi-color setup with any sound board. The key components are the RGBA LED and the 16-position rotary switch.
There's always a bigger fish.
I did the same with my 616 3aa or 3aaa works fine but put 4 of either and all you get is light i went through 2 boards before i figured it out.
Hello Matt, I want to thank you for your tutorial, luxeon I converted two swords, the first unmanned and the other, but I have a problem because the lighting of the LED does not turn on the sword with the driver, but I sound cons to extinction by the LED light remains steady.
Otherwise, I wanted to know if there is a tutorial to make this conversion in 15 colors and MR Hasbro or whether we can do on its creation?
Again thank you very much
Last edited by Maitre-Yoda74; 05-11-2010 at 02:44 PM.
hello all, I would like again to thank Matt Thorn for his tutorial, and add a little thing because I change the schema to eliminate this gap between sound and the LED, I made 3 lightsaber with this scheme it operates the perfectly.
I am new to this and I am using the Joe Jedi config here.
Is it possible at all to use a DPDT momentary illuminated switch. If so what resistor do I use?
Another thing is. I have a 4AA pack at 6v will this work some way?
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