yes, the build your own lightsaber kits are horrible. a friend and i went together and bought one to check it out. it was on long enough to test all the sounds and colors, but it quit working soon after. no dueling or anything, it just died.
i am a nerd, if you don't like it, i will cut you with my lightsaber
Since I'm planning on not running my LED from the Hasbro board at all, I don't think the flashing will be a problem. If it comes down to it, I'll deal with having two switches on my saber rather than having that cheesy flash.
Good call on old Luke ROTJ, that chip sounded so bad I don't know why they put it in there at all. It sounded worse than an Yanni record.
No, Wal-Fart didn't have Mace Windu.
"Chaka, call off Dawson, will ya?!"
I think removing the Hasbro clash sensor and adding the MR clash sensor would stop the clash flash. kind of defeats the idea of building less expensive sabers with sound though. i think the springy thing that senses shorts the light for the flash. just a thought. It would be nice to be able to flash a chip; with your own sound; like an atmel chip or some sort of mp3 board. it could resolve several issues and create a New thing altogether.
tetmatec, it's not the sensor, it is on the board. I don't know enough electronics to point it out, but I removed a clash sensor and just touched the wires for a fraction of a second. The clash sound came on and the light flashed for a whole second or more - way past the time I actually made the connection.
My local Malwart only sells the crappy Obi AOTC and the generic (reversed hilt colors Qui-Gon Jinn) with red or green "blade" in that $8 bin as well.
Another thing - I discovered that if you change the momentary switch on the Hasbro to a push on/push off or slider(continuous on) switch, the contraption turns off at the first clash. So, it needs to be momentary. I've heard there are some spring loaded slider switches out there that combine a momentary and a permanent connection switch. Still looking.
Tim, any help there?
Born of Sith, seduced by the light side.
i really want to just let the soundcard mooch enough power from two of my AAA's to run it & not have anything to do with the rest of the circuit. From my experimenting so far I don't think this is gonna work...in fact, I'm starting to doubt if even a relay will solve the problem. I'm waiting to hear back from a few knowledgable people on the subject. when i find something out i'll post it here (hey Tim, if you read this crap any time soon....any ideas? other than, "just buy a force fx & get it over with, dumbass" ?) i'm almost to that point, though []. for what i've ended up paying for two home-built LED sabers, I could have bought two fx's by now.
GeluKhanGharr, is this the one you were talking about?
http://cgi.ebay.com/RARE-Vader-Grafl...QQcmdZViewItem
"Chaka, call off Dawson, will ya?!"
Mi, yes, that's it.
So, you alluded to running the power from 2 of your AAAs. I've been toying with the ideea for a while. You say it doesn't work?
Did you try this:
Of course, you still need to add your resistor and switch for the LED. The light output from the board you can leave dangling or add another hiltside mounted LED for effect.
Born of Sith, seduced by the light side.
that would work for powering the board, the problem is it's still part of the circuit & would make that flash. i found out the led doesn't even have to be hooked up to the soundcard at all, if the soundcard is running off the same battery pack by it'll make the led flash[]. i have a solution, Corbin[8D][8D][8D]Das was kind enough to email it to me on this, as soon as I have his ok to share the info I'll post it.
"Chaka, call off Dawson, will ya?!"
i used this switch in my first hasbro conversion and it is momentasry and works great. it is just a bit hard to mount.
the motion and clash driver for Luke's Rotj rerelease
i just saw something very funny, people are paying 40.00 a pop for sound modules from hasbro sabers on ebay, the guy selling them is a pure genious, bt the people buying them should do some research first.
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