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sorry about the quotes, i thought it did that automatically.
it does not have the sounds now that i look closer at it, sorry about the false alarm. these will surely be $10 soon, they have many many of them and I thought I might be of help. oh well!
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Ultra, Na that wasn't you. I was looking for your sound boards and havn't seen any for a while so I just bought a generic sith one and the seller got cheap on shipping I think.
Sorry to be annoying everyone, but I searched all related posts for the last 20 mins and can't find the answer.
Ultra - On the EL sounds thread Tim shows us how to hook the sound board up with the voltage reducer to take the 9v battery down to 4.5v for the sound board. I think I read on another forum - maybe jedi council - that you said your sound boards work fine and don't burn out when running it on 9v without the voltage reducer. I'm sorry but I couldn't find your original post and needed some confirmation before I burn this boards out.
Again, sorry if this question has already been answered.
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The Fx sabers have all the sound and motion sensors. has any one tride to look for maybe a broken one on ebay? some of them have all working parts but for the light in the blade. you could take the sound and sensors out and put them in your saber... would this work? and do fx sound system, sound ok?
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<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Protein5000
Ultra, Na that wasn't you. I was looking for your sound boards and havn't seen any for a while so I just bought a generic sith one and the seller got cheap on shipping I think.
Sorry to be annoying everyone, but I searched all related posts for the last 20 mins and can't find the answer.
Ultra - On the EL sounds thread Tim shows us how to hook the sound board up with the voltage reducer to take the 9v battery down to 4.5v for the sound board. I think I read on another forum - maybe jedi council - that you said your sound boards work fine and don't burn out when running it on 9v without the voltage reducer. I'm sorry but I couldn't find your original post and needed some confirmation before I burn this boards out.
Again, sorry if this question has already been answered.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I would reccomend you use the voltage reducer. While people have used the board hooked up drectly to a 9 volt with no problems, it wasn't designed to handle it.
http://www.ultrasabers.com
Corbin|Strydur|Ultra
The Holy Luxeon Trinity
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No worries, thanks Ultra! [
]
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ive been reading, and im a bit slow and confused.
I pruchased an Hasbro Eletronic Lightsaber the other day.
How dose one hook it up to the eletronic system that i have?
i am not very skilled with the electronic portion, so a little help could be worth more. ive seen Tim's picture, should i just follow that?
I was also thinking about installing the little montion sensor in and the other component inside a film containers, you know thos black rounded plastic tubes with the grey top for camera film. Has anyone have any idea or input about installing the speaker too?
thanks for reading.
- TorLinWaDur
http://www.geocities.com/dbleswordfighter
http://www.myspace.com/lintodur
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I dont know what pic of Tims your refering to, but here is how I hooked up mine and it works great. The only thing you should know is that hooked up this way, if your Hasbro has flash on clash, your saber will have flash as well. I didnt mind as I kinda like the flash (guess its just a matter of personal preference really).
Also, I read your post and thought your idea of using a camera film tube might just work and be the thing I needed to make sure my Hasbro boards didnt short out. So I constructed one (hope you dont mind and if anyone asks me about it you will get the credit[
]). It worked perfectly! I used the clear ones because thats all I had, and I think the clear ones might be a little stronger (not really sure). I drilled a good size hole in the top to run the wires through, notched what used to be the top cap with a groove to run my speaker wires in, hot glued my speaker to the cap, and hot glued a little "pull" wire to the camera tube so I had something to pull on when I remove it. The other componants fit great in the tube and the speaker/cap pop on and off, in case I need to get back in there. The whole thing slides in and out of the hilt with room to spare. I want to say thank you for the wonderful idea and I hope I have not over stepped my bounds by making one.?.
Cain
***It is now that we battle.When you die, await my arrival in the afterlife where we will battle again.Perhaps there you may have the ability to defeat me,but not here,not now,not this day.So let us part with words and embrace the blade.***
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<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by scaarmor
I dont know what pic of Tims your refering to, but here is how I hooked up mine and it works great. The only thing you should know is that hooked up this way, if your Hasbro has flash on clash, your saber will have flash as well. I didnt mind as I kinda like the flash (guess its just a matter of personal preference really).
Also, I read your post and thought your idea of using a camera film tube might just work and be the thing I needed to make sure my Hasbro boards didnt short out. So I constructed one (hope you dont mind and if anyone asks me about it you will get the credit[]). It worked perfectly! I used the clear ones because thats all I had, and I think the clear ones might be a little stronger (not really sure). I drilled a good size hole in the top to run the wires through, notched what used to be the top cap with a groove to run my speaker wires in, hot glued my speaker to the cap, and hot glued a little "pull" wire to the camera tube so I had something to pull on when I remove it. The other componants fit great in the tube and the speaker/cap pop on and off, in case I need to get back in there. The whole thing slides in and out of the hilt with room to spare. I want to say thank you for the wonderful idea and I hope I have not over stepped my bounds by making one.?.
Cain
***It is now that we battle.When you die, await my arrival in the afterlife where we will battle again.Perhaps there you may have the ability to defeat me,but not here,not now,not this day.So let us part with words and embrace the blade.***
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Hi everyone,
scaaromor,
I wish the image is a bit bigger, when you have time can you enlarage it just a little bit more.
The image I was refering to is this one ( I hope there is no trouble in copying it to show ).
now as far as the film camera tube, I don't think u were stepping out of bound, i have placed the idea out on the table, so someone that has more expereince in building things can go first before me trying it. I should like to name it though. to "TeeTubeSoundingSystem". Id like to see a picture of it.
Hey Tim maybe you can offer this pattern. lol
- TorLinWaDur
http://www.geocities.com/dbleswordfighter
http://www.myspace.com/lintodur
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TorLin,
With the set-up you've shown you will need a separate latching switch to your inverter, otherwise it will be on as soon as you hook up your battery. My suggestion is to cut the ground wire to the inverter and use the "negative lead to LED" to feed negative to the inverter. That way the sound and inverter start up simultaneously with the push of the momentary switch. I have originally tried that using a relay to bridge the gap, but that used too much power and it drained the battery in 3 minutes flat. I discovered you don't need a relay if you don't go higher than 9 volts.
Born of Sith, seduced by the light.
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