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Thread: Yes, another noobie with big dreams

  1. #11
    Jedi Council Member cardcollector's Avatar
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    Yeah, Take your time. Especially the electronics.
    make sure you have a good 1 1/2 hours to set aside for wiring if you've never soldered before.
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  2. #12

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    Sometimes I hate driving a truck. No money, lol.

    I do have a question, on "tinning", what is the reason on doing that. I have read the directions you all have, but is it really nessary.

    I do my own radios and speakers, (Installing), and tinning is not required that I have seen. Is it for a better connection or is it something else.

    Nope, I have never used a soldering iron before. (Practice first like the directions say, that I will.) I have an eletronic mind, but enough to burn down the house.

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cadaverous View Post
    Sometimes I hate driving a truck. No money, lol.

    I do have a question, on "tinning", what is the reason on doing that. I have read the directions you all have, but is it really nessary.

    I do my own radios and speakers, (Installing), and tinning is not required that I have seen. Is it for a better connection or is it something else.

    Nope, I have never used a soldering iron before. (Practice first like the directions say, that I will.) I have an eletronic mind, but enough to burn down the house.

    We tin our pads or wires to make the solder flow easier and to ensure we don't have to put heat on a joint or connection for very long. A lot of the stuff we deal with in this hobby is very sensitive to heat, so the less time we throw heat to it, the better.

    Check out the following YouTube videos for some good tutorials:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AOdnGUMi7lQ

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qpb4NfiGLMk

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KR9r_lGYGoQ

  4. #14

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    Just take your time when you put it together man. It's always fun to put your first saber together and knowing that you put it together yourself when you get done with it is a great feeling. Even more of a satisfaction when you actualy get to see and/or hear it for the first time when it turns on.

    Do what I did if you have to and print off a diagram of the board just to make sure you know where everything is if you think it helps you. Never can be too careful when messing with this stuff.

    You'll get it man and if you need help the forums will still be here. Look forward to the pics.
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  5. #15

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    I wonder if you initially chose the button-head screw ("rivet") because you wanted something unobtrusive. Most people choose either 1) a convenient thumbscrew that looks good with their design, or 2) a black or silver "set screw" that will be nearly invisible. It depends on what you want. Button-head screws are rarely chosen because 1) they have no cosmetic value or convenience and 2) because they are not as unobtrusive as a set-screw. Just FYI.

    What people do use button-head screws for are to fix a sinktube-shroud to an MHS piece (a main body or extension).

    Oh, and more general advice, or rather a word of caution: There is always less room inside your hilt than you think there is, and every part takes up more space inside the hilt than you think it should. Common Newtonian physics do not apply to the interior of a lightsaber's hilt.
    Last edited by Matt Thorn; 07-26-2009 at 12:04 AM.
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  6. #16

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    personally, I like the idea of the thumbscrew idea because I dont want to carry around an allen wrench all day.
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  7. #17
    Sith Warrior Sairon's Avatar
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    Just find a way to stick it inside your hilt, cut the wrench down a bit so it fits.
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  8. #18

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    Thanks guys and gals, I went ahead and traded in the nut/bolt for the right one. I may decide later to put that in for something different, but for now, I will deal with the allen wrench.

    If I read that right, it is just to hold the blade in right? If it is, is it possilbe to use some....oh what is it called that...Plumbers Tape, that holds screws in better.

    One stupid question, what do you subjest, (ms, too tired) on a belt clip? It must be able too hold a 17-19 in hilt.

    When I do get it finished, I will have pics. Though wife has been in the hospital and need to save the extra cash for bills. So it maybe a while.
    >

  9. #19
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    17-19" hilt? Wow, that's long.

    I suggest that you do not use a D-ring, or it may be hanging down to your knee, since those are usually attached to, or near, the pommel, then there's the added length of the hook it will hang from.

    I suggest a Covertec clip. You can locate the button for it
    farther above the pommel if you choose. I would wait till you have the hilt together before attaching it, so you can determine where you want, after you decide how high, or low you want your hilt to hang from your belt.

    I don't remember hearing of anyone using plumber's tape on their blade retention screw. It will stay in fine when it's pressed against the blade.

    Though if you decide to carry it hanging from your belt after having a blade in it, make sure you screw the screw in as far as you can, don't leave it where it was when you loosened it to remove the blade from the saber. Without the friction/tension of the blade in it, it will be loose. I've lost a few screws that way and that can be annoying, when you're a costumer, like I am.
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  10. #20
    Youngling Alcfalath's Avatar
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    Heya, hope your wife is ok . Hospital visits are never that fun or cheap.

    On the saber note, how about making up the saber in the MHS builder, then saving it though the builder function as a JPG, and showing us here by uploading it to photobucket. It will be a slightly longer hilt than normal, but then if you are after a claymore/shortstaff saber then that would work nicely.

    Also, J-Lo is right about the tape. You wont need any to help the screw keep the blade in place. Dont worry, you aren't the first person to wonder if there is a better idea, nor the last, but its a tried, tested and surefire way of keeping it nice and snug in the holder. If you arent sure just yet, a thumbscrew is what you will be wanting, and can be upgraded/changed later.

    That being said also, unless you have a 'drill and tap' set to make the threaded holes for the screws, you will want to add to your cart some items in the 'Services' tab on the shop front, such as Drill and Tap (for the screw hole and possibly a covertec knob if you go that way).

    Hopefully this can help, and good luck with everything Make sure to upload a pic for us too

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