Goltar Bias' saber claws

[Goltar Bias]

Ok, i posted pics of a few sabers in the works (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...ead.php?t=8545 , thread)and got multiple requests to elaborate on the claws on the larger of the two sabers. So here goes on how they were made.
Tools: drill press, drill bits, dremel, dremel drum sanding head, center punch, tubing cutter.
First you need some: 1/2OD aluminum tubing
3/8"x0.171"x1/2" nylon spacers
M4x.7x1/2 (metric) socket head screws
Spikes of your choice with a round 3/8" base
( i used 4 2" cone spikes)




Now i cut 4 1&1/2" pieces of tubing with the tube cutter.(reusing image here)


Next take the screw head and measure with a caliper then find a drill bit that matches the diameter. Then clamp the nylon spacer in to a drill press vice or what ever clamp you have to hold it. Be careful here as the clamp will deform the spacer on the end it holds. then drill into the spacer widening the center hole until you are about 1/8" to 1/4" away from the opposite end. Best to mark your drill bit with a bit of masking tape to ensure an accurite drilling on all spacers.


Once you have drilled all the spacers out insert the screws until the stick out the opposite side.



Next insert the spacer and screw into the tubing piece until the screw sticks out the end.



Now decide how you want the base of the spike to line up with the end of the tubing it can be flush or slightly recessed or what ever i went with a slight made 1/16" recess. then hopefully if you have built sabers before or if this is your first one and you are using a hasbro sound board from a saber, save the screws from the saber as they are a perfect thread for biting into the nylon spacer as a lock screw. by drilling into the tubing and spacer with a bit the size of the core of the screw ( found by examining bits and the screw side by side carefully). Then remove he spacer and drill the hole in the tubing large enough to allow the screw to slide through(use caliper to measure thread and core of screw together and find drill bit). then reinsert spacer into tubing and insert screw and it should look like this. (This pic also shows the hole i drilled for the 8-32 screw which holds the claw to the blade holder.)


Now just screw your spike to the end of it and it is ready to go, also if you want it to sit better on the blade holder you might want to use a dremel sanding drum and put an elongated notch in the side you intend to touch the holder as this produces a nice flush fit. And here in the complete claw. ( the piece with tape on it is actually one of the cut outs from the overlay of the saber i though they might ad a little something to the claws use your imagination.)



Now for the blade holder, here i drilled two holes one threaded for the 8-32 screw that holds the claw to the blade holder the other is a recess hole(which is hard to see in the picture kind of blurry sorry) for the head of the lock screw which is hidden facing the holder.


And here is the end result.



Hope this works for every one. Let me know if you have any questions.

[cardcollector]

Hey, great tutorial! This is just what I needed to finish a saber I was designing
Two questions-
1. Where do you get those spikes???

2. Do the claws stay upright? or, are they very sturdy? With only one screw it doesn't look like they are.

[Goltar Bias]

Hey, great tutorial! This is just what I needed to finish a saber I was designing
Two questions-
1. Where do you get those spikes???

2. Do the claws stay upright? or, are they very sturdy? With only one screw it doesn't look like they are.

1.http://studsandspikes.com/buy/index.php

2. The spikes are extremely sturdy despite there only being one screw into the spike. the spikes are solid steel with nickel coating. Also if you are thinking about there only being one screw holding it on the blade holder the recess hole for the lock screw allows the head of the lock screw to act a lock pin so it will not turn side to side at all once the screw into the blade holder is tightened.

[Thaxos]

That is genius! Thank you for posting an awesome tutorial! Great job on the claws, they look great!

[DJMoonbass]

brilliant! im going to try that with an engine lathe and milling machine... heck ill probably just make the entire spike thing one piece and mount it like that!

[Master Jedye]

That's a pretty cool idea

[ARKM]

1.http://studsandspikes.com/buy/index.php

2. The spikes are extremely sturdy despite there only being one screw into the spike. the spikes are solid steel with nickel coating. Also if you are thinking about there only being one screw holding it on the blade holder the recess hole for the lock screw allows the head of the lock screw to act a lock pin so it will not turn side to side at all once the screw into the blade holder is tightened.

That's where I buy my spikes (which I have yet to use). They have some good looking stuff there.

[Jedi-Loreen]

I too have bought spikes from there. A few years ago I was thinking about designing my own Sith costume and got some for the belt I made, and some to put on some articulated leather armor I was designing, but have not yet made.

Here's my Sith belt:

[cardcollector]

What size thread size are those spikes??

[Goltar Bias]

What size thread size are those spikes??

The thread size of the spikes is M4x.7 it is a metric size you can get screws and rods that threaded for the size from the hardware store. but for a tap and die you have to do some hunting i am considering getting one found them on this site:
http://www.metric-tools.com/catalog/...48/3791821.htm

According to the tap chart that came with the tap and die set in standard i have you use the same drill bit for a M4x.7 tap that you use for a 8-32 tap.