I think I have all of the parts..

[DrakoniamX]

Build your own Luxeon III/Seoul P4 w/
-4AAA battery holder
-Red/Orange
-Collimator Lens 5° viewing angle
-BuckPuck 1000mA 4-wire
-Push on/push off switch with black button
-Luxeon III/V Lens Holder
Screw on LED blade holder style 10
MHS choke style 1 short (when comes back in stock)
7" fluted with standard style switch hole
MPS pommel style 4
MPS insert style 3 (with threaded hole for recharge port)
MPS clip
10/32 x 13/32 black thumb screw (i'm putting the blade retention hole about 1 1/2 cm bellow one of the three gaps in the blade holder, would this be a good screw to use? or something shorter?)
2.1mm power jack/ recharge port
2.1mm plug adapter for smart charger


Where can i get a smart charger or any charger i could use for the recharge port? I have a RC helicopter charger, and im not sure if i could use it, and im not sure if it has a 2.1mm power jack, think it will work? And for wiring the recharge port, do i solder them in the same place as the negative and positive parts of the battery pack? For people who have had experience, whats probably the best AAA rechargeable batteries?

EDIT: Just a quick question i'm curious about. I searched the forums, could not find it, i used the search engine, and could not find it. I've seen tutorials on how to build a saber, and they just put the heatsink, with the LED and everything on it, and how does it not slide further down the hilt, how does it stay in place? Sorry if this has been answered before, i just couldn't find it. Also, can you fight with TCSS's show blade? I'm sure you can so i'm wondering why its called a show blade?

[Jedi-Loreen]

If you're going to do a lot of dueling with your saber, I recommend this switch: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/SP...utton-P44.aspx That way, if you bump the button, your blade won't flicker off and on, like it would with the other latching switches. It's one of the options for the kit.

I would also not put a thumb screw in that blade holder, I'd use a set screw, it looks nicer, in my opinion. The only thing thing that kind of sucks is that you need to carry an allen wrench with you.

Here's my saber with that blade holder and a set screw for the blade retention screw. I happened to already have some stainless steel 10-32 1/4" set screws and used one on it.

[DrakoniamX]

Oh sweet thanks, but for the switch, could i use a bezel so i wont accidentally turn it off instead of a mom switch? isnt that what you have on your saber?

[DJMoonbass]

obviously i see you are going with recharable AAA. you might just want to use a resistor... your batteries will drain faster but the blade would be brighter... if you use a buckpuck 1000mA you are only providing exactly 1 amp to the LED. if you go with a resistor you will provide the 1400 mA that the LED will draw from the battery. allthough a buckpuck drives an LED the best... you wont get full LED potential with it. so its up to you. depending on what AAA batteries you use...

heres another option you could do. FOR EXAMPLE



lets say you have 4 batteries that are 3.7 volt 2200 mah. if you wire all four in PARALLELL. you would stay at 3.7 volts but your run time would be 8800 mah. and that would last quite a bit. all though i dont know the size so you would not use the AAA battery holder. but with a simple 1 ohm 2 watt resistor you would have it all set. but like i said its up to you. you could just use standard AAA rechargeable batteries and customize your holder so you have a two sets of parrallel wired in a series. theres lots of options to get full potential out of an LED.just explore.

i hope i was helpfull and that all my info was correct.

[DrakoniamX]

If you're going to do a lot of dueling with your saber, I recommend this switch: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/SP...utton-P44.aspx That way, if you bump the button, your blade won't flicker off and on, like it would with the other latching switches. It's one of the options for the kit.

I would also not put a thumb screw in that blade holder, I'd use a set screw, it looks nicer, in my opinion. The only thing thing that kind of sucks is that you need to carry an allen wrench with you.

Here's my saber with that blade holder and a set screw for the blade retention screw. I happened to already have some stainless steel 10-32 1/4" set screws and used one on it.

Would the set screw stick out of the blade holder? And Moonbass, so i should use a resistor, not a buckpuck? What if i used AA instead of AAA? Could i use the buckpuck then? I looked for the chart that shows all the information but couldnt find it.

[DJMoonbass]

what kind of rechargeable AAAs are you using? AA or AAA pretty much same battery different size cell. im thinkin that AA would last longer than AAA. but i would stick with the AAA size rechargables. i sort of need to know so i can tell you if a puck or resistor will work better. but the LED you are using needs 1400 mA to reach full potential. if you use a 1000 ma puck you will only get 1000 mA. you can however purchase two 700 4 wire buckpucks from TCSS instead of one 1000 ma and wire them in parrallel. that would get you 1400 mah but it would cost more money. it will drive the LED the best. and you could still use the batteries that you plan to use. but can you tell me what batteries you are using?

[DrakoniamX]

Umm im probably going to buy something like this:
http://www.frys.com/product/2575651?...H:MAIN_RSLT_PG
two of them*
They have a longer run time but im not sure how many volts they are. I wouldnt mind buying 2 buck pucks, but how would i wire them if i use 2? I searched it and could not find it. Also could someone answer my question about the recharge port?

Edit: i think i know, would i make a Y splice sorta thing? To wire the 2 buck pucks?

[DJMoonbass]

your batteries will work pretty good. i couldnt see the voltage but i can see that there thousand mah... let me know the voltage...

as for your question about the recharge port. heres some pictures:
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...=recharge+port

and to wire the two pucks in parrallell you just connect red to red and black to black and so on with the pucks. heres a picture

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...ighlight=pucks

hope this helps...

[DrakoniamX]

Yea i get the buckpuck but one question about it, why are there so many wires going to the battery pack, is it just 2 wires but just a real long ones? The recharge port i still dont get, sorry, would it be like this?

________________________ -------------- one goes to recharge port and one to LED
negative(from battery pack) then a Y splice

________________________ -------------- one goes to recharge port and one to Buckpuck
positive(from battery pack) then a Y splice

[Jedi-Loreen]

Oh sweet thanks, but for the switch, could i use a bezel so i wont accidentally turn it off instead of a mom switch? isnt that what you have on your saber?

I do have a regular latching switch on that saber, in fact, the mom switch I recommended doesn't work with the bezel because the button has to be pushed in further than the bezel allows you to do with your finger. But that mom switch does act like a latching switch, if you read the description.

Would the set screw stick out of the blade holder?

Yes the set screw does stick out of the blade holder a little bit, it's not the exact length of the thickness of the aluminum of the blade holder, it's a little longer.

But it's a lot more unobtrusive than a thumbscrew with a big knurled knob on it.

Don't get me wrong, I still use thumb screws, this saber has one on it and I don't think it detracts too much from the look of the blade holder.



This one also has that latching Momentary switch, since it doesn't have the bezel.