Page 7 of 8 FirstFirst ... 5 6 7 8 LastLast
Results 61 to 70 of 77

Thread: Koda Vonnor Saber v2.0

  1. #61

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Koda Vonnor View Post

    I've been training with Don's Kota saber for the last few months and have gotten used to the longer hilt; hence the longer scaling on the MHS build.
    What do you mean by training?

  2. #62

    Default

    There's a group locally that trains Aikido and uses lightsabers for Bokken practice.
    It's not how you move your saber...
    it's how you move yourself.

  3. #63
    Council Member
    Jedi Council Member
    Jedi-Loreen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Not of this Earth
    Posts
    6,077

    Default

    Cool.
    In order to see the Light,
    you must sometimes risk the Dark.
    TCSS MODERATOR


    BLUE 8 Ready to ROCK and ROLL!

  4. #64

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Koda Vonnor View Post
    There's a group locally that trains Aikido and uses lightsabers for Bokken practice.
    you're my new best friend.

  5. #65

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Makotojinenkan View Post
    you're my new best friend.
    Thanks Sempai!

    http://www.jediguardians.com/
    It's not how you move your saber...
    it's how you move yourself.

  6. #66
    Youngling Revan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Orlando, Florida
    Posts
    178

    Default

    i would switch the regular ribbed extention with the V-groved one and give it powder coating on just the depressions, not the outside. that way it would be a little more shiny. that and it's a shame that that part and the bottom grip couldn't be a little closer together. it seems like there is too much space. but other than that it looks friggin sweet man!
    "The force alone is my ally, and it shall guide me to my destiny."

  7. #67

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Revan View Post
    i would switch the regular ribbed extention with the V-groved one and give it powder coating on just the depressions, not the outside. that way it would be a little more shiny. that and it's a shame that that part and the bottom grip couldn't be a little closer together. it seems like there is too much space. but other than that it looks friggin sweet man!
    Now that I look at it again, I could have used a V-grooved rib section in there. I guess I just thought it would be easier for Strydur to turn down a plain ribbed section. I had to get that piece plus the blade holder lathed down a tiny bit so the pre-existing shrouds would slide over them. Both shrouds were cannibalized off the original non-working belt hilt shown in the O.P.

    I would have left the ribbed section solid black (with a tiny bit of weathering) in either case, since I am reproducing the original design as much as possible.

    New speaker supposed to arrive today. If I get it all fixed up I'll post pix tonight.

    ~ Vonnor
    It's not how you move your saber...
    it's how you move yourself.

  8. #68

    Default

    hey again koda

    for your speaker if you want to test use a multi-meter. set it to ohms (the one with the omega symbol) and see if it reads 8ohms between the pads on the left and the pads on the right. if you get a reading of 8ohms the speaker should be fine, unless you can see any damage to the actual mylar like a tear or something. sometimes even with too much heat to the pads the heat will transfer to the voice coil of the speaker and it will lift out of its seat. in this state it can still read 8ohms and be no good anymore, you can tell if this has happend by looking at how far out the dust cap on the speaker is compared to normal, sometimes u can see it from the back side too, you may actualy see the voice coil sticking out a bit, if u can see it, its no good.

    if all else fails you can always test it with a known good board like a mr or something
    a wise man once said "dont try to be a great man....just be a man"

  9. #69

    Default

    I got the new speaker today and plugged it up. Soon as I plugged in the battery pack I got that sweet girl's voice welcoming me to UltraSound two point five! Took a few tries to get all the wires packed safely inside the hilt. Had to wrap the wires around a pencil and kinda stick them in coiled. There was actually a good bit of space between the battery pack and the recharge port.

    Here's some photos: Note the comparisons are with the Qu Rahn (Kyle Katarn) saber - a bin4 lux5, 1A buckpuck w/no sound. New LED is bin2. If you look close you can see the color tone difference between the two. The new saber leans definitely toward cyan. It is much more apparent in person, the photos didn't capture the tones too well. Also of note the Katarn saber is a bit brighter, most likely due to the 1A driver. I believe the US2.5 drives a Lux5 @ 700mA.

    Switch close-up shows the micro snappy-tactile. I used an end mill (flat-bottom drill-bit) to dig the hole, then dropped in the wired up switch and encased the whole thing in epoxy. Other pix show how the Anakin style box cover-plate hides the switch. I just press on the cover-plate to activate the switch.

    Sequence convention is lights-on - lights-off. Flash is used in all pix.

    Click for full-blade shots.

    Thanks much for all the help and advice. Now I just gotta design a new hilt and do it all again.








    ~ Vonnor
    It's not how you move your saber...
    it's how you move yourself.

  10. #70
    Council Member
    Jedi Council Member
    Jedi-Loreen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Not of this Earth
    Posts
    6,077

    Default

    Very nice.

    But, um, the wires are kind of long.
    In order to see the Light,
    you must sometimes risk the Dark.
    TCSS MODERATOR


    BLUE 8 Ready to ROCK and ROLL!

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •