I suggest you read the threads in all the links posted here, and the ones in LDM's tutorial before you ask anymore questions.
I suggest you read the threads in all the links posted here, and the ones in LDM's tutorial before you ask anymore questions.
In order to see the Light,
you must sometimes risk the Dark.
TCSS MODERATOR
BLUE 8 Ready to ROCK and ROLL!
Good luck with your first saber. I look forward to seeing it.
alright I will read the links posted in this thread then I will return to asking questions and posting what I would like to build.....
and most of all thank you all very much for your quick help! you all seem to be giving me all your help and effort thanks for that!
I have a somewhat list going I got from the Noob link..
first a few questions....
-for the led light should I go 3 watt or 5... I want the color cyan..?
-resistor should be the cheapest and easiest right?
-lens 5 degree or 10. whats the difference?
-last I do need all this right?
----------------------
ok now for the step by step buying process
----------------------
1----------- blade holder --
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Sc...e-18-P438.aspx
2----------- blade retention screw -- http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/8-...rew--P111.aspx
whats this for?
3----------- hilt style --
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Hi...hole-P103.aspx
what about extentions seems kinda short.. on mhs builder
4----------- pommel --
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MP...le-7-P386.aspx
5----------- kit (think this is ok)
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Bu...cs-Kit-P6.aspx
(need this too?) http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Qu...ector-P38.aspx
6----------- Blade
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/LE...-OD--P227.aspx
Tools
---Soldering iron (can acquire at store)
--- heatshrink (buy at same place presumed?)
--- protection can acquire
--- drill and tape set... guess i should buy that here ill need it right?
ok thats what I have so far.. how is my list going?
Originally Posted by nesyad
I have a somewhat list going I got from the Noob link..
first a few questions....
-for the led light should I go 3 watt or 5... I want the color cyan..? Lux 3 is the simplest to power, go with that, they are plenty bright.
-resistor should be the cheapest and easiest right? Yes, and it comes with the LED kit. Otherwise you'd need a buck puck or driver board. Too advanced for you right now.
-lens 5 degree or 10. whats the difference? Not much difference, people have their preferences. go with 5 degree if you're getting a thick walled blade, for thin walled, it doesn't matter so much.
-last I do need all this right?Yes.
And you need to do more reading!
----------------------
ok now for the step by step buying process
----------------------
1----------- blade holder --
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Sc...e-18-P438.aspx
2----------- blade retention screw -- http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/8-...rew--P111.aspx
whats this for? What does it sound like it's for? It holds the blade in the blade holder so it doesn't go flying out when you swing your saber.
3----------- hilt style --
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Hi...hole-P103.aspx
what about extentions seems kinda short.. on mhs builder You can add an extension, but you will also need one of these adapter if you get one:
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Do...ctor-P127.aspx
4----------- pommel --
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MP...le-7-P386.aspx
Go back and read Step 4 of LDM's noob saber tutorial, you're missing 2 parts, a pommel insert and clip.
5----------- kit (think this is ok)
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Bu...cs-Kit-P6.aspxThe kit has everything you need for the electronics for a basic LED saber, so yes.
(need this too?) http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Qu...ector-P38.aspx If you want to change LEDs to change the blade color in the future, yes.
6----------- Blade
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/LE...-OD--P227.aspx
Tools
---Soldering iron (can acquire at store)
--- heatshrink (buy at same place presumed?) Yes. You can also buy it in the Store here.
--- protection can acquire
--- drill and tape set... guess i should buy that here ill need it right? Tap, not tape. You can also have Stydur drill and tap your blade holder for your retention screw for a fee and the same thing if you want a Covertec knob or a D-ring to carry your saber on your belt.
ok thats what I have so far.. how is my list going?
Please do more reading. You could have answered some of these questions yourself, with more reading. We cannot stress that enough, Read, Read, Read!
In order to see the Light,
you must sometimes risk the Dark.
TCSS MODERATOR
BLUE 8 Ready to ROCK and ROLL!
sorry I didnt complete all the reading ^ ^ but i need to complete this before comic con. and the shipping days it will take and how long it will take for me to build it are still unknown. so I was hopping to get it all ordered as soon as possible..
but If I dont do the reading I wont know how to build itso I'll get back on that.
J-Lo, I'm going to have to disagree, the buckpuck is almost as simple, and far better. The only difference is number of times he needs to solder, really.
Nesyad, it depends on where you are located for shipping times...
Look under his Location.He's in California (no capital "c"
), so it'll only take 2-3 days to ship once he places his order. If everything's in stock.
It doesn't sound like he's ever soldered before, so I was thinking he should keep the number of solder joints he needs to make, as few as possible.
In order to see the Light,
you must sometimes risk the Dark.
TCSS MODERATOR
BLUE 8 Ready to ROCK and ROLL!
I'm sure he can handle 3 more than the resistor way...Have a little faith in the guy!
It actually is a little easier to solder the wires on the buck puck to other wires, than to solder wire onto resistor leads, especially for a novice.
In order to see the Light,
you must sometimes risk the Dark.
TCSS MODERATOR
BLUE 8 Ready to ROCK and ROLL!
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