my first saber project

[duncan29793]

I have been a lurker on this board for awhile, reading and drooling over built hilts. Some great stuff on this forum and I wish I had the time, tools and skills to start making many of my own.

I have played around with several ideas over the past months and have settled on an MHS design and a sinktube design (influenced by the jedi sabe from TOR). I am planning on doing the sinktube design first and then possilbly the MHS.

This is what I have so far. I haven't picked a name for it, but will eventually end up with something suitable. I plan on putting in a Green K2 and slide switch in the activation box. I was never a fan of them, but think it will work on this design.

Although new to the wiring and soldering, a straight set up of battery pack, switch, buckpuck and led seems pretty simple so I am thinking about adding 2 accent leds to the center section. After playing with that, I am thinking about adding a seperate switch for the accent leds to stay on with the blade off and then later moving to either a MR soundboard or Hasbro Clone Wars board. So I am hoping this saber will give me a little progression in skills. I don't plan on doing a whole lot more to the saber, but may add little details here or there as I progress.

A couple questions that I hope I can get an answer for...

If I use the 1.5 sinktube adaptor, I know the 1.25 sinktune can fit inside it. When I slide in the 1.25 tube, will the threads on the pommel stop it by creating a lip, or will it slide all the way to the pommel itself?

I plan on using o-rings between the 1.5 sinktune and 1.25 sinktune. What size should I use to create a good snug fit to help hold it in place? I will be cutting a little window to give it a little dimenssion and look a little grip-like. I plan on using the poly washers on the outside of the 1.5 sinktube and found the right size for them.

I plan on adding updates to this thread as I start to work on this project and ask any questions or have you guys check out my progress I am making to offer suggestions on what I am doing.

[Lord Dottore Matto]

Good luck bro, just PM me if you have any questions. THe 1.25" tube will slide all the way through, so you will need a set screw or two.

[cardcollector]

I really like your design!

It is very original and can tell you have put A lot of thought into it...

One thing you can do that will reduce your costs a little bit is-
istead of using the 1.5" sinktube adapter+pommel 4 is you can use the 1 1/8" hole plug and a spraypainted polywasher instead.

Can't wait to see the progress!!!

[duncan29793]

thanks Lord Dottore and Cardcollector. The input is appreciated.

Any thoughts on the size of O-Rings to fill in the gap between the 1.25 and 1.5 sinktubes. I remember reading a thread on this once, but can't seem to find it now.

Also, regarding the pommel. I might play with both ideas, doing the polywasher and cap first for exepense cutting, but think I might actually cave and get the adaptor and pommel #4 because I imagine the look of the thicker pommel will set off the end of the saber better. Will never know until I try them though

I plan on picking up parts this week and getting started. Don't know how fast or slow I will get it done. All depends on time restrictions I have and how many times I have to redo stuff.

Oh yeah, I have a basic dremel set (cordless) that has the basic cutting tools. Will this be fine to cut a 22 gage sink tube or should I purchase an upgraded cutting wheel? I have already cut up some pvc for another saber project (modified an ultra saber hilt for my son) so know it works fine for that.

[Lord Dottore Matto]

It will work, but I use heavy cutoff disks for metal.

[cardcollector]

I'm not sure what size o'rings you will need but the 1 1/4" polywashers will fit better under the 1.5" sinktube.

Regarding Dremel: They recently came out with an "EZ lok" sytem. I can not encourage you enough to buy one of these!!!!! it will LITERALLY "cut" (hehehe-pun) to time it takes for a sinktube to be finished in half.

You will also need a tap set. I drill hole with my dremel but it is a HUGE PAIN to get a nice straight hole. If you know somebody with a drill press I would reccomend that instead. I wouldn't reccomend buying the dremel "Drill press stand" because for about ~$20-30 dollars more you can get a nice 5 speed Drill Press.

[duncan29793]

yeah the 1 1/4 polywashers are gonna be used on the outside edge of the 1.5 sinktube to taper them off. I might play with the polywashers under the sinktube to have an interesting effect in the window there, but was hoping for the washers. Either way they are gonna primarily be to hold the sinktubes together.

I heard of the ez lok and was gonna look into them.

As for the drill press, yes already started asking around. I thought about the dremel drill press stand. Thanks for the advice on not getting it, I will look into the cheaper drill presses instead.

[FenderBender]

Check Harbor Freight, they regularly have cheap drill presses for $39-$60 bucks.....pretty cheap if you ask me. Good luck with the project.

[Jonitus]

If you're lucky enough to have a Theislen's, Farm and Home, Orschelin or other farm and ranch type store near by, you can find good deals on tool too. I picked up my 5-speed drill press at a Theislen's for $30. Admittedly, it's a bit small, and I'd really like a bigger table to mount my machinist's vise on it, but it's not all that bad, considering. Plenty powerful for saber work.

[Lord Dottore Matto]

I have to say, I just had to replace my drill press. It cost my dad ~$600 20 years ago so I was prepared to spend, but it didn't happen. I found an amazing drill press WITH a laser sight at Lowe's (I just stopped in on my way to Harbor Freight) for $104. It is REALLY nice and Skil Brand, so easy to find parts if needed. AND it is much nicer than the $90 one at Harbor Freight. The moral of the story is look around because you may be surprised what you'll find!