Thaxos, the word "bastardize" isn't swearing. Look it up.
Thaxos, the word "bastardize" isn't swearing. Look it up.
Originally Posted by Thaxos
Bastardize: To lower in quality or character; debase.
It's kind of subjective, but it still isn't a very nice sounding word.
And yeah, that diagram is almost impossible to read.
In order to see the Light,
you must sometimes risk the Dark.
TCSS MODERATOR
BLUE 8 Ready to ROCK and ROLL!
Ok here is a readable diagram....can it be done?
If you took that from the diagrams in the Tutorial section, it looks like it should work.
You don't need a resistor on the LED, since you'll be using a driver.
In order to see the Light,
you must sometimes risk the Dark.
TCSS MODERATOR
BLUE 8 Ready to ROCK and ROLL!
I made it myself. Didn't get it from the forums. The questions i am wondering about are the same clash sensor being used for both the soundcard and the driver, but also the driver is made to run a lux 3. I want to run a lux 5 (hence the resistor) is that possible to do? or will the lux 5 still be overdriven by the corbin driver?
JLo is right you don't need a resistor...I'm not so sure about using a single clash sensor though, when using a higher voltage power supply? I havent done that myself but iirc correctly some people have said thats bad for the MR board [?] and you might need separate clash sensors?
What FX board are you planning to use? The only one offered in the new Hasbro Signiture Series sabers has current flowing through the clash sensor, and it will damage the Corbin driver. If you happen to have an older Master Replicas Luke Skywalker ROTJ or Mace Windu ROTS soundboard, then you can use the clash sensor on those boards for both the soundboard and the driver, as they are the only FX soundboards that do not have current flowing through the clash sensor.
Overdriving the Luxeon V will not hurt it, really, but it may shorten it's life from 100,000 hours to about 70,000....
you'll need to use a 7.4 volt battery pack to run that Luxeon V, but that voltage will also destroy the FX and even the economy (toy) hasbro boards. I'd suggest just using a Lux III or a Seoul P4.
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awesome imput guys, thanks. I planned on using either a hasbro obiwan or an fx construction kit soundcard/sensors. the hours lost on the led aren't a big issue. but the driver and soundcard being damaged are. I think i messed up on the battery voltage it is two trustfires....7.4V sorry. but anyways, just so my newbie brain can comprehend everything....it can't be done without destroying the soundcards or driver....with the parts i have.
Oh, it can be done, it's just overly complicated for your first saber, if that's what this is. You can use the set-up you have in the diagram, with the 5 volt regulator for the FX soundboard. That will drop the voltage from 7.4 to 5 volts for the FX board. I missed that earlier in your diagram when i looked at it.
So, if you're going to use the Hasbro/MR FX board, you'll want to get another clash sensor for the corbin board. The only thing I'd change in the diagram is the location of the latching switch. For those two boards, you will need a single, DPDT switch that will turn on both circuits at the same time. It would be wired to the switch leads of both boards. The best FX board for this set-up would be the construction kit board, because it can't drive a Luxeon III by itself, let alone the Lux V. I'd save the Obi-Wan board for another saber that just runs a Luxeon III or P4.
I'd suggest some reading in the Saber Sound section, or do a search for "Joe Jedi" or "sw-616 soundboard" to find some more information on that board and how to use it.
Last edited by Jay-gon Jinn; 06-11-2009 at 02:02 PM.
Got a question? Start Here. Have you tried the Thread Index yet? Most questions can be answered there.
my momma always said...if your gonna battle the empire a jedi needs a sophisticated weapon. thanks for all the help and advice. ill be sure to post the finished product. thanks again!
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