too looooong unless that's what you're going for
too looooong unless that's what you're going for
"The force alone is my ally, and it shall guide me to my destiny."
It wouldn't be more than 58-59" long.Originally Posted by Revan
too looooong unless that's what you're going for
Why did you squish the top picture? If you wanted our opinions, it would help us if we could compare the relative lengths of the two, and the top saber is a few inches longer.
I didn't squish either of the pictures, if it was squished I don't know how it happened.
If I go with the triple white 540 lumen led set up would I need a power extender of some sort?
540 Lumens? Is that one of the 10 or 20 watt LEDs that I have read about? I read a few posts on this site about them but the major reason they are not in wide use that I gathered from the posts was because it would need some major heatsinking so that it would not become overheated. People were talking about adding a heatsink fan like you would see on a CPU to help cool it.
I have read a tooooon of posts and there was only one on here where someone used a 10 watt LED successfully. At this current stage I dont think those LED's are viable, IMO.
As I figure it, the top saber should be 20.75 inches, and the bottom saber should measure 19.25. Those are both probably much too long. I also don't see how an extra long hilt has much of anything to do with your Scottish heritage. The largest claymore I have seen only had a hilt that was 17.25 inches long, and most are between 11 and 12. You may be used to the length of a hasbro maul, but don't forget that an aluminum MHS will be quite a bit heavier. I'm not so sure you're going to like the end result once you actually have it in hand. That's just my opinion.
This is the link to the led setup I'm looking at. That's why I'm asking if I need a power extender for it.
If I remember correctly, Erv includes a section in the CFC 4.0 manual that details how to use the power xtenders to drive a tri rebel. It actually requires three of them, one for each LED on the star. You might want to read the documentation he offers BEFORE deciding on a final configuration. Also remember that while tri rebels are great for creating color changing sabers and some of the trickier colors like purple, there aren't any optics out for them yet (as far as I know, correct me if I am wrong) so your blade may be slightly dimmer as a result. If you just want white, you might go with a seoul p4 instead. This will be a lot easier and cheaper in the long run.
There are, the Luxeon Star site offers them.Polymer Optics Tri-LED Narrow Angle Colour Mixer - Rebel LEDs
I wanted to run all three white leds at once because I was going use a filter to get the desired shade of purple, I figured I also could use some translucent model paint if I needed too. I also wanted to use the hilt as a large flash light when I go to a friend's place for Airsoft events during the evening activities, plus his dog has a bad habit of running off if unattended.
Last edited by MasterStoddard; 06-06-2009 at 08:02 AM.
If you had checked the dimensions of that optic you would realize that it won't fit in an MHS. Saber building is a learning experience. You need to slow down, start by making a simple saber, and then when you have learned more you can try more complicated designs.
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