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Thread: Economy Version Hasbro Sound Tutorial

  1. #381

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    Please i have a project to use blade builders econo soundboard on my own saber hilt, there is some scheme to add flash on clash to this board or a clash button?
    Thanks a lot

  2. #382

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    The econo soundboard has a built-in flicker on clash.

    It is not possible to add a separate flash on clash with this board.

    You might be able to add a button wired separately from the econo board that lights an extra LED die when you press it. Pretty much wired exactly as you would /without/ a soundboard at all.
    When you do things right, people won't be sure you've done anything at all.

  3. #383

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    Quote Originally Posted by BZWingZero View Post
    The econo soundboard has a built-in flicker on clash.

    It is not possible to add a separate flash on clash with this board.

    You might be able to add a button wired separately from the econo board that lights an extra LED die when you press it. Pretty much wired exactly as you would /without/ a soundboard at all.
    Thanks a lot

  4. #384

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rhyen Skytracker View Post
    You can drive a LUX I Led directly from the Economy hasbro sound card. I have done it over 70 times and have not had any problems. But as Card Collector said, DO NOT TRY TO PUT 6 VOLTS TO A LED WITH OUT SOME TYPE OF DRIVER OR RESISTOR. The economy sound card does act as a driver.
    Hey Rhyen. Thanks a bunch for this post. I at trying to run a q5 led, which from my understanding can work under the same voltage reqs as a q4. However, I want to put 6 volts (4aa) through a board exactly like the one this thread is about, and you stated here that it would fry the LED. Would the Q5 be able to take this voltage, or would I need to put in a 2.7 ohm resistor so it won't burn out?

    Also, would the led require a heatsink running it like this? I'd assume it would, but it would be a lot easier if I didn't have to cram it in if I didn't have to.

  5. #385

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    All high intensity LEDs should be mounted to a heatsink if running at the full max current.

  6. #386

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    Thanks again Fenixfire. I got the whole saber planned out at this point, just need to figure out if 6v can run fine on a q5 without a resister. In another thread, Rhyen said he can run an led off of 6v without a resistor, but here he said you can't. Just need some clarification.

    This is for a blue q5 thats running at 1amp with a fv of 3.5. Just don't want to burn it out. The input current is 6v from 4 AA
    Last edited by gustan; 05-12-2016 at 08:25 PM.

  7. #387

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    Quote Originally Posted by gustan View Post
    Thanks again Fenixfire. I got the whole saber planned out at this point, just need to figure out if 6v can run fine on a qt without a resister. In another thread, Rhyen said he cam run an led off of 6v without a resistor, but here he said you can't. Just need some clarification.

    This is for a blue q5 thats running at 1amp with a fv of 3.5. Just don't want to burn it out. The input current is 6v from 4 AA
    To be safe I would always do a resistor if connecting it to the battery at all. If both leads go from the board to the LED, I would use a multimeter to see what voltage and what amperage is being fed to the LED before hooking it up. Then use that to determine resistors.

  8. #388

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    Perfect, thanks mucho. My dumb head didn't even think of using a multimeter XD As much as I do think it would work without one, I'd add one as well just to extend the length of the bulb.

    On a side-note, my 1999 Qui-Gon jinn saber had the same board as the one featured in this post, not the one that Matt Thorn had presented. I find this very odd, but do not mind one bit knowing that I can run 6v through it XD

    I'll take a pic and upload it for reference when I get home in 3-4 hrs.
    Last edited by gustan; 05-12-2016 at 09:00 PM.

  9. #389

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    I made a tut on how to make a neat enclosure, and it worked perfectly...Then I put the battery in backwards on accident (+ to -) and poof, board stopped working. Crud. I can hear a slight pop of the speaker when I flip the switch, but thats all. There is some, yet very minimal voltage, going to the speaker and led wires. I bridged the fuse, and it had no effect...

    It looks like one of the caps blew. There is yellowish hard residue on the board. Is that normal?

    http://s32.postimg.org/kejwcmfg4/20160513_180831.jpg

  10. #390

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    Phenomenal thread! This has helped me so much with older sound cards.

    Currently trying to figure out how to add a recharge port to this setup with an 18650- lots of research... With p
    lenty more to go!

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