Good point J-Lo, I forgot to mention that. I would use around a 30 - 32" blade.
Good point J-Lo, I forgot to mention that. I would use around a 30 - 32" blade.
ime using a 1999 hasbro quigon board, ime getting interfierence through the speaker (which stays on all the time)
also can i use a push to make instead of a momentary swich?
Last edited by Valgard Telash; 10-20-2009 at 03:25 AM.
There is no emotion, there is peace.
There is no ignorance, there is knowledge.
There is no passion, there is serenity.
There is no chaos, there is harmony.
There is no death, there is the Force.
Those sound cards must have a momentary switch to operate. A latching switch will not work.
Rhyen will this setup work with the lux 3 led ?
I wouldn't recommend it with a red Lux III. You can try it with the relay set up, but I would use a red/orange Lux I or a Red CREE Led with it.
Ok so I am taking apart my obiwan force action (see picture). Yellow wires on left (out of picture) go to the speaker. Top 2 are battery I'm pretty sure. Bottom 2 blue are for the switch. Now there are 4 wires on the right side of the picture I'm not sure what to do with.
Green White Purple Orange. They were all going into the 3 LED enclosure on the saber. Now from a previous diagram on this thread it looks like the green is for a kill switch which I will not be using so I can disregard that? The other 3 I dunno.
I have the 4 wire 1Abuckpuck from here... Need to figure out where that fits in as well if it does with this wires. I assume 2 are for my LED. Were there just more wires because more LEDs? And I am using a P4 Seoul Blue... that will be brighter than even these 3 combined right? And this toy saber had a flash on clash effect... is that only because it had multiple LEDs? Will my singlE p4 accomplish this?
The wiring diagram for that board is here. No, those wires are not there because of the three LEDs, which are, IIRC, wired in series. The flash-on-clash has nothing to do with the multiple LEDs. And somebody recently posted a diagram for a Buckpuck, I believe, but it's probably in another thread. Happy hunting.Originally Posted by Dendore
There's always a bigger fish.
excellent! so green and white are kill switch and can be negated.... purple and orange will go into vin/vout on the buckpuck.... Now, would there be any consequence for not using a relay in this setup?
If you want to use the Buckpuck, you'll need a relay, because the Buckpuck won't work with a momentary switch. I just hook the 3-watt LED directly to the soundboard, without a Buckpuck (though you'll need the proper resistor if you want to use red/red-orange/amber). Sometimes simple is best.
There's always a bigger fish.
Why does the buckpuck care about the switch? Seems like it shouldnt since its coming off the board and the board keeps the circuit on.... so buckpucks just cant come off the boards at all? Different circuit type or something?
Edit: Lets say I still decide to go with buckpuck and do need relay... what ratings on relay? for 1A buckpuck and 6V power source are those the specs I need... 1A 6V? or does it have to do with the LED too? I see where one guy says he used 1A 5V.. Close enough either way I imagine...
Edit2: More of just a clarification... This board actually makes the LED do a flash on clash affect correct? The relay/buckpuck shouldnt interfere with that and I dont need anything else from the original LED assembly?
Last edited by Dendore; 10-25-2009 at 09:37 PM.
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