Was looking for something like this, thanks...
Was looking for something like this, thanks...
Hi Rhyen,Originally Posted by Rhyen Skytracker
I have the sound board from a Darth Maul saber and am not sure about it, there is no speaker and i cannot determine if there is a motion sensor or crash sensor.
Have you every use one?
Hello Rhyen I had a question, have you ever seen a board like this or better yet happen to have a wiring diagram?
Now where on earth did that come from?A sound/light board built into the blade!? And yet the LEDs seem strangely spaced. It's not like any Force FX I've ever seen.
There's always a bigger fish.
That is a Hasbro Ultimate FX board. I've used one before. The green wires are for the speaker, but I don't remember anything else off hand. I might have more info in an old project notebook. I'll check later and post up if I find any thing. They are decent boards if you can get them figured out. I've run mine for about a year now.Hello Rhyen I had a question, have you ever seen a board like this or better yet happen to have a wiring diagram?
I know, right? I could not find anything on this board aside from it being from a Qui-Gon saber.Now where on earth did that come from?
Yes the green wires are for the speaker, I'm going to guess one would remove the LED strip and bridge all nine contact points for the positive to the LED thought that is only a guess. Regardless any information you could provide me will be greatly appreciated!
Yeah, something like that. I seem to recall that the A and B contacts go to the clash sensor. I cut the LED strip off just above the clash sensor though, so I didn't end up needing to use those because I could re-use the stock clash sensor that way. I was driving my LED via other means, so I'm not sure about the numbered contacts on the LED strip. You might also try the power transistor trick that is commonly used. You won't get power-on/off ramping, but it'll probably work pretty reliably.Yes the green wires are for the speaker, I'm going to guess one would remove the LED strip and bridge all nine contact points for the positive to the LED thought that is only a guess. Regardless any information you could provide me will be greatly appreciated!
I found this YouTube video (it's not mine). I watched this before I took on my project. I didn't follow this guy's techniques exactly, but it should help you get a handle on the basics of working with the board.
One tip is that I think it makes more sense to identify the "non-demo mode" wires and simply twist/solder them together. It takes up far less room in the hilt vs. leaving the switch in there.
OMG THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THIS!!! This video couldn't have been any better! A friend of mine had a stunt saber and his brother had given me that sound board from an old Qui-Gon saber he had luckily saved not knowing what he had. I did this once before with a Luke ROTJ board about 6 years ago so I wanted to try this and help them out. Thanks to you their saber has sound so on behalf of all three of us thank you.
The Ultimate FX sabers and other cheapo Hasbro sabers that these boards are out of typically run on 3 AA batteries (4.5 Volts), so 2 AA cells is probably not enough. You'll also need more power to drive either the Cree or the Rebels in blue because you'll be looking for a forward voltage of at least 3.4V. You'll only get 3 volts out of 2 AA cells.
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