Some questions 'bout this...

[steel_darkblade]

[/quote]

I went through this idea a while back but the problem was how to overcome having a second switch for main power for the 555 circuit? If the circuit remains powered up all the time then the batteries will go dead so we are back to having two switches again. I haven't given up on the project it has just been shelved for awhile until I have time to devote to it. Good luck on your endevers though.

Do-Clo


Don't make me destroy you...

[/quote]

But aren't you going to have that problem anyhow even with a momentary switch for just the sound module? The 555 timer shouldn't drain that much, and if it's one shot, meaning only one pulse is sent, then the drain from the 555 circuit should not be enough to drain your batteries. Also, what's the amp rating on your batteries? If it was a wimpy one to start with, then yeah, of course it's not going to last long. Anyways, I'll build the circuit by this weekend and give it a try, then i'll post my findings, lookout for it.

"All men die, but not all men live... which are you?"

[Do-Clo]

[/quote]

But aren't you going to have that problem anyhow even with a momentary switch for just the sound module? The 555 timer shouldn't drain that much, and if it's one shot, meaning only one pulse is sent, then the drain from the 555 circuit should not be enough to drain your batteries. Also, what's the amp rating on your batteries? If it was a wimpy one to start with, then yeah, of course it's not going to last long. Anyways, I'll build the circuit by this weekend and give it a try, then i'll post my findings, lookout for it.

"All men die, but not all men live... which are you?"
[/quote]

The 555 timer draws around 15 ma in standby mode over a few day this is enough to drain the typical battery. Keep in mind we use AAA or AAA batteriers in our sabers which have an ok current rating but will not last that long with a steady drain. The sound board current draw is so little that it is hard to measure in standby mode so the batteries will last weeks in a hasbro sound board powered saber.
I was thinking about using a small socket with plug that could be used as a main power switch for the saber. One could take a plug and bridge the contacts on it then connect the jack as you would a switch then when the plug was inserted the cricuit would be closed and powered up, plug out powered off, You could make a knob to disguse the top of the plug and then build another plug assembly but without bridging the conacts and you would have something to put in the socket for display purposes.

Do-Clo


Don't make me destroy you...

[Lord_Jyensba_Lalne]

Could I use a momentary switch from RadioShack for the SB, or do I have to use the switch that came with the SB in the first place?

[Do-Clo]

Yes you can use a monetary switch from RS just make sure it is a normally open type switch, it should say that on the package.

Do-Clo


Don't make me destroy you...

[LAN-ED-TUL]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Lord_Jyensba_Lalne

Could I use a momentary switch from RadioShack for the SB, or do I have to use the switch that came with the SB in the first place?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

listen to master do-clo, he is wise.




You dont know the POWER, of the dark side...

[steel_darkblade]

[/quote]

The 555 timer draws around 15 ma in standby mode over a few day this is enough to drain the typical battery. Keep in mind we use AAA or AAA batteriers in our sabers which have an ok current rating but will not last that long with a steady drain. The sound board current draw is so little that it is hard to measure in standby mode so the batteries will last weeks in a hasbro sound board powered saber.
I was thinking about using a small socket with plug that could be used as a main power switch for the saber. One could take a plug and bridge the contacts on it then connect the jack as you would a switch then when the plug was inserted the cricuit would be closed and powered up, plug out powered off, You could make a knob to disguse the top of the plug and then build another plug assembly but without bridging the conacts and you would have something to put in the socket for display purposes.

Do-Clo


Don't make me destroy you...

[/quote]

Clo, didn't Gelu post something about using a Zener diode some time ago? I've been wracking my brain on how that would even work. And am I right in deducing that Luke's setup dims because by using his setup, you're effectively putting just 5V to the Inverter, not 12V? Do you think there's an electromechanical way of doing this single switch thing? I really need this darn thing to work on one switch.

"All men die, but not all men live... which are you?"

[james3]

Just a thought and this may have been covered. What about using a relay for the inverter so that the momentary switch triggers the sound board and the relay that would supply 12v to the EL untill triggered again via the momentary? I think Do-Clo has explained the power split well enough so it really wouldn't be that big a deal. Being that you are using a 1.5 sink tube you have plenty of room you could even use a programable relay though they are not cheap.

"Only a Sith deals in absolutes. I will do what I must." - Obi-Wan Kenobi

[Do-Clo]

I am not sure what voltage is actually being applied to the inverter in Luke's setupwithout measuring the voltage. I built an intercom/PA system for a fruit packing plant a few years ago and I used a toggle switch that was double throw double pole. But waht made this switch different was that one side of thcenter was a latching switch and the other side was a momentary swicth this could be made to work if you could find one that was small enough to fit in the hilt. The switch I used was a large industrial toggle switch rated at 250 volts 10 amps overkill for a saber.

Do-Clo


Don't make me destroy you...

[Do-Clo]

James that setup would work if you could find a relay that will stay latched until hit with another momentary switch contact. Try searching for Potter Brumfield relays as I have one that has a time delayed momentary switch closure that is controlled by 110 volts being apllied but that sucker cost $100.00 not cheap.

Do-Clo


Don't make me destroy you...

[james3]

I have always used Corby 86 programable relays for stuff like this. They have all kinds of cool things I have used these for and I think they are a bit cheaper.


94-0086 0086 Digital Controller

Programmable relay for panic, latching, regular & delay timer, zone control �œ SPDT Form C rated @ 5 amp @ 24VDC �œ 6 - 18VDC operation �œ Quick-connect wire harness �œ Use with 7000 series keypad to provide a relay output �œ The 86 can stand alone in a low voltage circuit responding to a positive or negative trigger �œ Delay timer can be programmed from 1sec.>8.5 min. and can be cascaded for hours �œ Bypass of alarm loops, security cameras, delaying sirens & bells, activate doors, shunt alarm circuits �œ 1.5" W x 2" L x .75 H (38mm x 51mm x 13mm)

"Only a Sith deals in absolutes. I will do what I must." - Obi-Wan Kenobi