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Thread: Wiring Momentary Tactile Switches.

  1. #1

    Default Wiring Momentary Tactile Switches.

    I have read plenty of threads on these switches.
    http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/SP...itch-P285.aspx
    However, I couldn't get a real clear idea about which leads to solder to. I know that there are two leads on each side. Does one wire solder to one side and one to the other, or do both wires go on the same side of the switch? Also, does polarity matter? Is one side pos. and the other neg. or are they the same?

    Thanks for the help guys. This will go into my Nerf Recon CS-6 modified blasster, behind the trigger.
    Yoda always said there would be days like this.

  2. #2
    Sith Warrior Sairon's Avatar
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    Use one side, so say only the left side, wire your pos and neg to to the poles (neg to one pos to the other duh) and there ya go. Momentarys have no polarity because all they do is complete the circuit.
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  3. #3

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    Thanks. I first thought that you used both sides, but after I posted the question, I decided to take apart an old VCR I had stored away. In looking at the circuit board, it looks like both circuit paths go to one side. However, I do have some that just have one set of leads coming out of the bottom, those are easy to figure out (duh). One the ones that have two sets, it looks like one set is used as an anchor and the other for wiring/soldering.
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  4. #4
    Jedi Padawan strengthofrage's Avatar
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    Both sides can be used, one side for one circuit, one for the other. This works well if your using say a momentary Corbin board and a Hasbro toy sound board in a saber together.
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  5. #5

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    What I want to know is how you mount those little switches into a saber? Do you just glue them in to their hole or something?
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    Dude, don't you have a multimeter? You could have done a continuity test on the switch and determined which leads work together very quickly.

    Every prop builder who does anything with electronics should have one!
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  7. #7

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    J-Lo, If you're talking to me, I don't have one YET. Funds are a little limited. You know Jedi don't make much money. I usually go to my dad's and use his, but he lives on the other side of town and at the time I thought of the question, I didn't feel like driving out there. Besides, you all are so helpful. I wanted to take advantage of the great wealth of knowledge here
    Thanks guys.
    Yoda always said there would be days like this.

  8. #8
    Jedi Council Member cardcollector's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jedi-Loreen View Post
    Dude, don't you have a multimeter? You could have done a continuity test on the switch and determined which leads work together very quickly.

    Every prop builder who does anything with electronics should have one!
    What's a multi meter???
    Got a Question? There's a thread for that...
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  9. #9
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    Are you serious? If you are, oh dear.

    Google is your friend:

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multimeter

    Not mentioned in that article, it's also useful for checking circuit continuity.
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    you must sometimes risk the Dark.
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  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by Eco View Post
    What I want to know is how you mount those little switches into a saber? Do you just glue them in to their hole or something?
    I have done it a couple of ways.

    1. I JB welded a couple with great results...just be sure to pre-wire the switch first and make sure you dont let JB weld get in the hole where the button part goes and it welds the button to the hilt. For this I use the kwik JB weld.
    Its not as permanent as you think. You can always grind out the JB weld without messing up the hilt (I did this on a saber I changed the sound card in and needed a latching switch) but it will stay through all the shock and other forces on the hilt.

    2. I copied Jay-gon and heated up a piece of plastic (he used PVC on the one I saw) and bent it slightly. When it cooled it hardened and I had a little pocket to hold the switch in place. That is how I have the switch on my Leia held in place. So far it works just as well as JB welding it but is easier to take out if need be.

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