new saber

[MasterRoop]

ok, im building a saber for a friend. and here is all the parts ive come up with so far. is this everything?

the reason that there are 2 switches is because he wants to blade and the sound board to run off of different switches.

Hilt Style 2
LED blade Holder Style 15
Pommel style 7
Guarded switch blue (2 of them)
D-clip
LED “Corbin Style” Battle blade 1” OD
1000mA BuckPuck LED driver
Luxeon Collimator Lens 10 deg viewing angle
Luxeon III/V Lens Holder
Seoul P4 LED
MPS Insert style 1
a blade retaining screw (he hasn't told me yet what he wants)
MR sound board.
MHS speaker mount V3
Premium Speaker
4AA battery holder



another thing is, will all this fit in the hit? i have a feeling that it wont.....

thanks for the help!

[Jedi-Loreen]

I don't see the MPS clip on your list, you need that to hold the pommel insert in.

If you're putting a buck puck in this saber, it's not all going to fit inside a single 7" hilt section, because you've only got about 5" of usable space, especially with the guarded switch being used. There's barely enough room for just the MR board, battery pack and speaker, with no resonance chamber.

[FenderBender]

Actually, with MHS the resonance chamber is built in. There will be room for all of that (Ive fit more in there) IF you're creative and careful in your planning. Seems kind of a waste to have the blade and the MR moard run separately when the MR will run it just fine. If you're wanting the ability to shut the sound off, then I would either install a volume pot on the speaker or a kill switch for the speaker, then that would save on space/wiring rather than having two different circuits. Speaker mount V3 is for a 2aa pack and mounting the soundboard on top. You can only use this if you're planning on using the long style 4aa pack which would kill your space inside no matter what set up you go with, or 2 Lithium Ions in a 2 pack which would 7.2 volts, and therefor too much voltage for the MR board without a regulator. You cant use the square style 4aaa pack with that mount. I would suggest the V2.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Using two guarded switches will take up about 1" of useable space inside the hilt...I'd do what Fender suggested and use a simple slide switch wired into one of the leads for the speaker to shut it off if he wants the option of a silent saber.

Wait until the V2 speaker mount is back in stock to place your order. Modifying the v3 isn't going to work very well for what you're planning on using for batteries. If you're planning on mounting the MR board on top of the 4AA battery like the US compact set-up, it may not fit. The MR boards are much taller with all of the transistors they have on them, and the wires on the bottom of the board.

[MasterRoop]

@J-Lo: hu? there's a clip? lol! when i built mine i just glued it.

@Fender: so.... are you saying TO put the Lithium Ions? or to NOT put them? also, he wanted the 2 guarded switches. he likes the looks.

@Jay: so.... your saying that a MR board CANT be mounted to a speaker mount?

[Jedi-Loreen]

What did you think that slot on the inside of the pommel was for?

[FenderBender]

@Fender: so.... are you saying TO put the Lithium Ions? or to NOT put them? also, he wanted the 2 guarded switches. he likes the looks.

No, I didn't say that. You could, BUUUUUTTTTTT........(caveat to follow.) You would need a voltage regulator and some more electroni-fu to wire it. The best set up is the V2 mount with the 4aaa pack. What MR board are you using? Most of the MR boards come already attached to a cradle in the MR hilt. If you take the top half of this cradle off, the part that the board is on will snugly fit insid the MHS hilt piece without moving around. I usually wire the battery pack so its snug up against the cradle with only about a 1/4 inch of play. I do this by running all of the wires from the pack under the board and out the front of the cradle then wiring it to the board. This saves room from all the extra wires especially if you're using rechargeables with a recharge port in the hilt. This will allow you to still have two guardes switches with one mounted just ahead of the original. The second guarded switch can be the kill switch for the speaker. The recharge port can go on the underside of the hilt right between the two switches. It'll be snug, but it'll work.

[MasterRoop]

ok, sounds good. i dont know which MR board im getting yet. the guy that i was going to buy one from is sold out. so im still working on finding one.

ok, so get the 4AAA and put rechargeible batteries in there? lol! just aking sure i understand whats being said!

[MasterRoop]

another question.

the MR boards take a monetary switch right?

also for the LED lens'. which is better. the 5 degree, or the 10 degree?

[Anavrin]

another question.

the MR boards take a monetary switch right?

also for the LED lens'. which is better. the 5 degree, or the 10 degree?

MR's take latching, most sadly. I very much want a mom-to-latching relay, but my electronics understanding fails me *dies*

5 Deg seems the general consensus, from what I've seen. 10 flares the base of the blade and you get too little up the length.