Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 11

Thread: Jay-gon Jinn's Chrome Saber #10 (MR sound/Seoul P4 white)

  1. #1

    Default Jay-gon Jinn's Chrome Saber #10 (MR sound/Seoul P4 white)

    Well, here's the pieces and parts for CS-10:

    As you can see there, I have one of the new MHS blade holders, style 14! There is a powder coated ribbed extension, a recharge port, a chrome rear grip section, the battery holder, speaker and an MR Luke Skywalker ROTJ soundboard. I have one of the metal pushbutton switches wired to the board, but that will be changed for a guarded switch with a silver button when it arrives in the mail.

    If you haven't seen the new blade holder, it is pretty cool:


    Some of the construction of this saber is already finished, as I worked on it simultaneously with BS-13. They will share the same recharge port set-up for the recessed look. The led for this one will be either a blue Seoul P4, or a bin 1 cyan Luxeon III. Blade will be either a standard Dual-Core Diffusion type, or an UltraEdge.

    What do I have planned for those rubber grips, you ask? You'll have to wait and see!

    Got a question? Start Here. Have you tried the Thread Index yet? Most questions can be answered there.

  2. #2

    Default

    Since I had most of the bottom half of the hilt ready to go, I could start on the wiring when the box of parts showed up from TCSS. I began by attaching the board to the recharge port:

    Next, I had to assemble the battery pack and speaker combo. This one will use a 4-AA battery holder and a TCSS speaker mount v2:

    I used the trusty hot glue gun to attach the speaker mount to the battery holder. Then, I soldered up the wires for the speaker. I ran the wires from the spols directly through the battery holder and soldered them to the speaker leads. Then, I pulled them through, and seated the speaker into the mount:

    I then added some heatshrink to the wires to make a harness, and that was done:

    I then attached the speaker wires to the board's leads, soldered the battery negative to the recharge port, and finished with the board positive and the battery positive:

    And tested it using a green K2 that goes to BS-2:

    It worked, of course!

    I decided to just use this switch anyway, and fit it through the hole:

    Now, usually I don't use electrical tape inside my sabers, but after installing and then removing the ribbed extension, I noticed that the board was getting stuck on the inside of the extension, and was twisting as the extension was unscrewed. I fixed that by taping the board to the leads from the switch. It has heavy 14ga. wires coming off of it, so they act as a cradle for the board, keeping it in alignment while installing/removing the ribbed extension:


    With that installed, I noticed the battery pack seemed a bit loose inside the hilt, so I used a couple of small pieces of double-sided mounting tape to add some foam strips to the sides of the battery holder:


    That makes it have a nice, snug fit!

    To remove the battery holder to change them, you just remove the end cap, the grille, and holding the saber vertically, just tap it on your palm, then shake it to cause the battery holder to drop out.

    Next up, I'll drill and tap for the CT wheel, drill for the blade set-screw in the blade holder, and get the led wired....if I can find a male plug for the QD, that is....I might be out of them.
    Last edited by Jay-gon Jinn; 02-10-2009 at 01:00 PM.

    Got a question? Start Here. Have you tried the Thread Index yet? Most questions can be answered there.

  3. #3

    Default

    I drilled and tapped for the blade set-screw:

    Then honed the blade socket to accept not only my poly-c blades, but also the UltraEdges:

    Then, while I was looking through my parts box, I happened to find a TCSS guarded switch that was a click-on, click-off type! I'll use this one instead of the metal plunger type. I set up the hilt in the drill press to drill for the larger hole:

    That switch requires anout a 1/2" hole....it normally uses a nut to secure it, but awhile back DT mentioned that you can force-fit the button in a 7/16" hole. That's what I'll do with this....the bad thing is, getting the switch back out is a real pain....but it shouldn't be necessary. So, I put it in:

    It looks good when the saber is assembled. The black guard goes nicely with the black in the grip section:

    I also found my last quick-connect plug, and soldered up the led, and then assembled the rest of the hilt:


    I popped in a JGJ-UltraEdge blade and took these:


    With all of that out of the way, I can make use of these:

    More to come on that, plus the final Beauty Shots! (Yes, it's finished!)

    Got a question? Start Here. Have you tried the Thread Index yet? Most questions can be answered there.

  4. #4

    Default

    Okay, this is the last update for this build!

    I cut the grips into six different pieces using my hobby knife:

    Which left me with three other pieces from the midlle of each grip. I cut those all in half (roughly) and evened up their lengths:

    Now with them all cut, I can start applying them to the saber:

    I have six of them, and spaced them out as equally as possible. The shorter ones will go on another location. Care to guess? Look below for the answer!

















    FINISHED PICS:



    Yup, that's where the short grip pieces went! I thought that part of the emitter look to plain for this saber, and since it wasn't powder coated, I'd add those to help tie it in to the black on the grip and the other fins on the pommel. I had to cut them down a bit, though. I used my wire cutters to trim the vertical fins on the grip sections down to about 3/16".





    Last edited by Jay-gon Jinn; 02-10-2009 at 01:12 PM.

    Got a question? Start Here. Have you tried the Thread Index yet? Most questions can be answered there.

  5. #5
    Council Member
    Jedi Master
    FenderBender's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Earth System - Rhode Island
    Posts
    1,531

    Default

    Congratz on the sale Jay, this was by far my favorite of all your work. A+ work man!

    If you're new, please take the time we all consider just as precious as you and READ!

    GET LATHED!

    Official BMF and LORD OF THE STRINGS

  6. #6

    Default

    The amount of sabers you pump out and the quality of each never ceases to astound me. Great job on another successful design and build.

  7. #7

    Default

    Very nice saber. Where do you get you rolls of wire at and what guage is it?
    May the Force be with you.

  8. #8
    Council Member
    Jedi Master
    FenderBender's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Earth System - Rhode Island
    Posts
    1,531

    Default

    Wade, check out www.allelectronics.com . and usual guage used is 26. At least, I think thats what he uses, most of us do.

    If you're new, please take the time we all consider just as precious as you and READ!

    GET LATHED!

    Official BMF and LORD OF THE STRINGS

  9. #9

    Default

    Allelectronics does have spools of wire, but I think I actually got those from action Electronics. I have used both 24 and 26 guage wire. I'm leaning more towards the 26 ga. though, as it coils up better inside the saber.

    Got a question? Start Here. Have you tried the Thread Index yet? Most questions can be answered there.

  10. #10

    Default

    Man i love all you builds they always come out so clean/flawless.

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •