Page 8 of 10 FirstFirst ... 6 7 8 9 10 LastLast
Results 71 to 80 of 91

Thread: LED Brightness Chart

  1. #71
    Jedi Master Kal El Rah's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    High in the hiltops of the SIMI Valley
    Posts
    1,378

    Default

    2 of these would give you the current you need paralleled (1400 ma) http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Bu...wire-P363.aspx

    if you were to use 6 14500s in parallel you would theoretically have 5600 ma and thru the 2 pucks would be regulated to 1400 ma constant till the current got to low.

    If you pm me your # in Japan depending on the area code, I can call you for free and discuss it in person, I leave that up to you.
    Last edited by Kal El Rah; 08-25-2009 at 10:36 PM.
    I'M JUST A SPY(LOL)

  2. #72

    Default New Cree LED

    Greets for my first post.
    I think the new blue Cree XP-E K2 bin is a contender for the brightest blue at 52 lumens at 1000 mA and 3.2 forward voltage. Its rated max is 1000 mA but it can be overdriven up to 1.4 A. The rebel is 48 lumens at its rated max of 700 mA and can be overdriven to 1000mA at 3.15 forward voltage.

    These are very similiar in size and voltage and current requirements to the rebel but the Cree takes it in lumens by a slight margin. That they be named so isnt so important but you can add them to the list as another viable alternative.

  3. #73

    Default

    This chart badly needs updating, but the original poster, LeMoel, hasn't signed in since December 2009. The Luxeon III, V, and K2 are now all obsolete. There's no mention of LedEngin LEDs. And now, of course, we have the insane 10+ Watt LEDs, which, while currently quite a challenge, will no doubt soon be commonly used in sabers.

    I'm not sure where the "overdriven" data comes from. Obviously, manufacturers aren't going to include such info in product datasheets.

    Anyway, I'll do my part (?) by summarizing the data for LedEngins, which are my personal favorites.

    Note that I'm not including such colors as "Cool White," "Warm White," "Deep Red," and "Ultraviolet." Neither am I including LedEngin's multi-color LEDs (RGGB, RGBA, RGBW--because of the complexity of comparing "brightness") nor the 15-Watt LEDs (which do not come in a star PCB configuration).

    The Forward Current given is the "maximum" (which is not to say "peaked" or "overdriven"), and the Luminous Flux and Forward Current given are for that "official" maximum Forward Current. Note that the Forward Voltage for the 10-Watt Neutral White is a guesstimate, since the "Typical Forward Current Characteristics" chart stops at 1000mA, despite the fact that the maximum Forward Current is given as 1500mA. I just extrapolated based on the curve. Also note that brightness for the 10-Watt Dental Blue is given in Radiant Flux, rather than Luminous Flux, and since there's no meaningful way to compare the two measures, I left it blank.

    Code:
    Color                              Luminous Flux    Forward Voltage    Forward Current
    
    Blue 3-Watt (LZ1-10B203)           40               3.5V               1000mA
    Green 3-Watt (LZ1-10G103)          165              4.5V               1000mA
    Red 3-Watt (LZ1-10R103)            105              2.5V               1000mA
    Amber 3-Watt (LZ1-10A103)          105              2.6V               1000mA
    Neutral White 3-Watt (LZ1-10NW03)  190              3.5V               1000mA
    
    Blue 5-Watt (LZ1-10B205)           52               3.8V               1500mA
    Green 5-Watt (LZ1-10G105)          205              5.0V               1500mA
    Red 5-Watt (LZ1-10R105)            106              2.8V               1500mA
    Amber 5-Watt (LZ1-10A105)          140              2.9V               1500mA
    Neutral White 5-Watt (LZ1-10NW05)  240              3.8V               1500mA
    Dental Blue 5-Watt (LZ1-10DB05)    1175             3.8V               1500mA
    
    Blue 10-Watt (LZ4-20B210)          215              15.1V              1500mA
    Green 10-Watt (LZ4-20G110)         765              20.1V              1500mA
    Red 10-Watt (LZ4-20R110)           625              11.6V              1500mA
    Amber 10-Watt (LZ4-20A110)         460              11.6V              1500mA
    Neutral White 10-Watt (LZ4-20NW10) 815              15.2V?             1500mA
    Dental Blue 10-Watt (LZ4-20DB10)   n/a              14.6V              1000mA
    There's always a bigger fish.

  4. #74

    Default

    All this statistical mumbo jumbo goes right over my head...for instance my brightest LED is p4 blue, then Lux3 Cyan then Lux3 red/orange which ironically would tell me less lumins means brighter..lol

    I supposed comparing Lumins only makes sense when it's within the same colour.

  5. #75

    Default

    Lumens relates to how bright something appears to the human eye IE green is more visible to the human eye.

    SSR90 specs

    SSR 90 Luminous Flux Forward Voltage Current ma
    Color


    Red 500 2.0 3150 Red 800 2.2 6300
    Green 950 3.4 3150
    Green 1650 3.7 6300
    Blue 200 3.4 3150
    Blue 350 3.6 6300

  6. #76

    Default

    Red should appear the brightest which is why it's used for stop signs. It actually penetrates further into your retina.

  7. #77

    Default

    Red should appear the brightest which is why it's used for stop signs. It actually penetrates further into your retina.

    This is a myth. Red is used because it represents danger more specifically blood.

    Here is a link with diagrams showing green at the top & dark blue at the bottom. That is why specs for blue leds seem so low. Some manufacturers don't even rate them in lumens.

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_m...hing_functions

  8. #78

    Default

    Comparison of Lumens is only meaningful within a single color, but it is quite useful. (The SSR 90 green is ten times brighter than the LedEngin 3-Watt green! )
    There's always a bigger fish.

  9. #79

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Sunrider View Post
    This is a myth. Red is used because it represents danger more specifically blood.

    Here is a link with diagrams showing green at the top & dark blue at the bottom. That is why specs for blue leds seem so low. Some manufacturers don't even rate them in lumens.

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_m...hing_functions
    Actually I learned this in colour theory in art school. The wave lengths in red light are longer, there for penetrating further into your retina.

    Isn't the SSR 90 the one that needed a fan because the heat sink isn't enough?

  10. #80

    Default

    Actually I learned this in colour theory in art school. The wave lengths in red light are longer, there for penetrating further into your retina.
    Oh true, I thought you were talking about why red was used for signs.


    Isn't the SSR 90 the one that needed a fan because the heat sink isn't enough?
    Stock MHS setup can get hot over about 3.5A drive. Very bright and durable setup tho.

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •