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Thread: LED Brightness Chart

  1. #11

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    oh ok i was wondering about the RRG,ill put it on.

    Hasid thanks i will add the orange led. But how many Volts do you run it on?
    Last edited by LeMoel; 02-05-2009 at 04:55 PM.

  2. #12

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    I am using a 4.8V nimh pack from the store on a CF 2.5 .

    I would like to get a bigger pack as well but I must wait to see what happens when taxes comes around.
    Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex. - Albert Einstein

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  3. #13

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    What about white? I just tried a White K2 for the first time, because people were raving about its brightness...but frankly I don't see it (literally). The recommended forward voltage is 3.85 volts, so rather than using my usual 4aaa Ni-MH setup, I'm using 3aaa Ni-MHs. And it's just not very bright. Side-by-side with a Cyan Luxeon III, it's just no match. Should I be ignoring the forward voltage recommendation and try running it at 4.8 volts, or would that fry it or make no difference in brightness?
    There's always a bigger fish.

  4. #14
    Council Member Novastar's Avatar
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    The forward voltage is generally just the average "sweet spot" for the LED, and it's true that to push to the maximum brightness, it usually requires a tad more voltage. For example, a Luxeon V is technically not at "full lumens" if you apply exactly 6.85v. You're better off around 7v, and even 7.2v (real, true-to-life volts--not to be confused with 8.4v coming from a "7.2v" rated pack!!!).

    That being said... you're right--a K2 white is nothing to write home about (nor write to TCSS about, lol). A Seoul P4 would be better... or hey, go nuts and look into the Seoul P7, lol.

    Finally--I'm not trying to "clown" LeMoel's work, but... an LED brightness chart is a fairly futile thing, considering the following factors--which I've mentioned in an old thread regarding brightness comparisons:

    1. All LEDs differ--even within the "same" bin type and color.
    2. Lumens are somewhat inaccurate FOR OUR PURPOSES in determining brightness. Again--for our needs.
    3. Since NONE of us (meaning 0%, not a SINGLE ONE OF US) will not use some type of optic solution to help focus the light... you can bet that the lumens output numbers in the specifications are being altered in some way... most likely: they are REDUCED.
    4. Since NONE of us (meaning 0%, not a SINGLE ONE OF US) will not simply skip using a BLADE of some type--the length, ID, OD and material used will also affect the lumens/brightness.
    5. Diffusion method? What type or types? Is it done well, or poorly? There are all types of ways this can be done, all of which can yield drastically, DRASTICALLY different results... and thus will also affect the lumens/brightness.
    6. Mirror tip or no mirror tip? If so, what kind? How much reflection? This affects brightness.
    7. Depth of blade in blade holder? 1"? 2"? 5. I don't know. But what I do know is: this affects brightness.
    8. Driver used? None? Over-driving? Battery voltage is barely able to keep up, or plenty? "True" readings on current flowing to LED? I don't know. But what I do know is: this affects brightness.

    Then if you want to start SHARING what you've found, you have CAMERAS. *SIGH*. Biiiiiiiiiiiiiggggggggg *sigh*, actually. This opens up an ENTIRELY bigger can of worms which pretty much seals the fate of making "comparisons" from person X's stuff to person Y's stuff. It's TOTALLY IMPOSSIBLE.

    And I do mean that. It is scientifically 100% impossible for two people to make accurate comparisons of LED sabers. There are simply WAY too many variables that would "poison the experiment".

    The ONLY way you could do it would be to agree to use all of the same materials, same EXACT lighting conditions, same EXACT sabers, same EXACT dimensions of the room the tests took place in... etc. etc. etc. -- and then vary the one and SINGULAR detail you wanted to test. Such as the LED.

    Then, and only then--would you have something that would be something like 95% infallible and closer to definitive.

    And I'm 100% totally not doing that. It's way too much trouble for such a useless result.
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  5. #15

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    I hear you, Novastar. It all boils down to, does the person who's using it like it or not? I tried my white K2 with a short (30 inch) off-the-shelf, thick-walled Corbin blade from TCSS, and with a 36 inch Corbin blade made by DoClo for the Qui-Gon saber he built for me. I have a gut feeling it will look better with a polypropelene wrap and semi-reflective tip. It just doesn't seem suited to the Corbin wrap. (Unlike my cyan Lux III, which looks great with Corbin wrap.) Oh, and I'm thinking of using a 3/4" blade for this one, which is yet another factor to account for. I'll give it a try. As you say, too many factors. I was just hoping for some feedback from folks who have tried the White K2 in various setups. Hadn't even thought of the Seoul P4, but since I vowed to make this saber using only things I have on hand, my choices are limited. (Yeah, I've gone way over budget saber-wise the past few months, so this is my equivalent of the "cost-cutting episode," e.g., the epsiode on Enterprise which takes place almost entirely in the shuttle pod with Trip and Malcolm. Hopefully my saber will turn out as well as that episode did. )
    There's always a bigger fish.

  6. #16

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    yeah your right Nova,but atleast we have a list of the leds that are out there now. and i think as the tri rebels get more and more popular this will be a good place to discuss color combinations to make certain colors ect.

  7. #17
    Jedi Initiate vargose's Avatar
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    I don't know if I like the tri-rebel idea.
    First, its pricey. Second, they suck batteries. Third, there is only one person arround that can really make them. Nothing against him, I just don't know if they are entirely practical.
    Considering all this I don't know how many people would want to jump on the tri-rebel wagon.

  8. #18
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    Actually, quite a few of us have "jumped on the Tri-Rebel wagon". They're not fully tested yet, but that will change within the next few months. Right now, they are a great high powered solution to getting colors you can't get with single color dies. Its also a way to get 200+ lumens on colors like the greens and blues. Though, there will be single die solutions for those colors soon too (LedEngine).

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  9. #19
    Jedi Initiate vargose's Avatar
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    I stand corrected.

    Speaking of LEDEngin. Are the LEDEngin 5Ws as bright as they claim? Has anyone used them?

  10. #20

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    Getting ready to button up my MHS custom with a GGW tri rebel...I'm running the two greens in parallel at 1.5 A...I have no idea what the lumens are but it is BRIGHT.....the white is set up on a power extender to flash white on clash...but I think I'm going to change that over to the shimmer effect instead...as far as run time...I played with it all day yesterday from about 9 in the morning till about 9 at night on and off for up to 15 mins at a time that's 12 hours of messing around with it as much as I wanted before it died....That is on a 7.2 TrustFire set up...

    KI-ADI-MUNDI on FX-SABERS.com

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