I'm planning on going to wire up Luxeon III to my spring action hasbro sound card. I'm rather going with 4aaa battery holder or 4aa battery holder. For a Luxeon III, what resistor would I need to use for this sound card?
Resistor for Hasbro Spring Action board
I'm planning on going to wire up Luxeon III to my spring action hasbro sound card. I'm rather going with 4aaa battery holder or 4aa battery holder. For a Luxeon III, what resistor would I need to use for this sound card?
I use those sound cards all the time and they don't quite have enough power to push a LUX III, but they will make a LUX I red or green or blue CREE very bright without any resistor.Originally Posted by Matakin
May the Force be with you.
Thanks for the info, I'll go with Luxeon I instead.
Here's is my wiring schematic, just to show whether this is right, so I don't mis-match the wires.
I dont mean to jack this thread, but what if I want to wire this board just for sound, and wire the led directly off the battery pack. Can I do it with one switch? Anyone have a wiring diagram, and what kind of switch would I use. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
the problem here comes in that the soundboard uses a momentary switch, but a direct drive LED would require a latching switch
Umm, actually I don't think that's true. Since the LED is hooked up to the board, it works the same way the original bulb/LED did. I don't know if this is much help, since it's a different Hasbro board, but I have a very similar setup that is working fine with a momentary switch here. I can't help beyond that, since I don't have one of those boards on hand, and can't see from your photo if the wires are where they should be. If you do a search for "Force Action," you should be able to find more details about that board. I'm pretty sure I saw a diagram of some kind around here.
EDIT: Oh, and using a 4.8 volt (4aaa Ni-MH) battery pack and a cyan Luxeon III, I don't need a resistor at all. You might find these threads helpful:
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...ead.php?t=2239
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...read.php?t=372
BTW, you have a clash sensor drawn in, but you do realize that the silver tube with the white plastic cap on the board is a clash sensor, right? You don't need to add one.
Last edited by Matt Thorn; 02-16-2009 at 03:32 AM.
There's always a bigger fish.
Matt, I think airsoftmode was stating he wanted to wire the LED directly to the battery pack, not the board, and therefore was asking if the LED would need a latching switch in addition to the momentary switch that activates the soundboard.
Also, if I'm not mistaken, the sensor on the board is for the "saber-in-motion" sound effect, and the clash sensor is for the impact sounds (or vice versa). My Clone Wars soundboard came with both sensors -- thus, my theory. Anyone with more knowledge than me, please feel free to correct or expand my thoughts on the matter.
Come to think of it, the Force Action series does have both a clash sensor and a motion sensor, doesn't it? My bad.
The wiring diagram shows the LED being driven through the board, which would work. Running them independently, as you noted, would require two switches: one latching (for the LED) and one momentary (for the board). The only reason he might want to do that is to avoid the annoying "flash on clash" effect. If he really wanted to get around that, the only solution I can think of would be to use a momentary DPDT switch, with a Corbin board driving the LED. That would add a lot of $$$ and also a lot more work to the project.
There's always a bigger fish.
This might be a helpful diagram (third post down, pulled from the TUTORIALS section).
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...hlight=sensors
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