Resistor for Hasbro Spring Action board

**wadeh13** · 02-16-2009, 11:46 AM

I have wired up over 40 of those hasbro force FX sound cards and it depends which model you get wheather it has both clash and swing. If it has any special effects like color shange or force feel, it will not have the swing sound. The best ones to get are the Darth Vader and the Anakin without the color change. I use a 4AAA power source and have only had one card that the fuse blew on. I just soldered a wire across the fuse and it works fine now. The voltage output to the LED is 6 Volts, but the current output is lower than the recommend output for the LED. It will make a bright even blade. I have used Cree, Lux I, Lux III and a Lux V led in this setup. You want to get a LED that is 700 mA or below for the current output. If the LED output is over 1 A, It will not drive it very well. Let me know if you have any more questions.

**airsoftmode** · 02-16-2009, 12:12 PM

Right you are, I am trying to get rid of the annoying clash on impact. So far, the only idea we have is a corbin board though. Hmm, if anyone else has come up with something let me know. Thanks guys

**wadeh13** · 02-16-2009, 12:46 PM

Originally Posted by airsoftmode

Right you are, I am trying to get rid of the annoying clash on impact. So far, the only idea we have is a corbin board though. Hmm, if anyone else has come up with something let me know. Thanks guys

It you don't mind not having the clash sound, you can just cut out the clash sensor. But you would still have the flashing during power-up and power down. If you don't want to use a corbin board, you could use a latching relay in parallel with the momentary switch.

**Matt Thorn** · 02-18-2009, 08:10 AM

Originally Posted by wadeh13

I have wired up over 40 of those hasbro force FX sound cards and it depends which model you get wheather it has both clash and swing. If it has any special effects like color shange or force feel, it will not have the swing sound. The best ones to get are the Darth Vader and the Anakin without the color change. I use a 4AAA power source and have only had one card that the fuse blew on. I just soldered a wire across the fuse and it works fine now. The voltage output to the LED is 6 Volts, but the current output is lower than the recommend output for the LED. It will make a bright even blade. I have used Cree, Lux I, Lux III and a Lux V led in this setup. You want to get a LED that is 700 mA or below for the current output. If the LED output is over 1 A, It will not drive it very well. Let me know if you have any more questions.

40! Wow. Do you have any wiring diagrams? I used a 1999 Qui-Gon and a cyan Luxeon III for my first saber, and despite the flashing, I love it. I'm going to make another with the same board, and am toying with the idea of using a white K2 with color disks. Any suggestions or advice? Thanks in advance.