My Joe Jedi's Future

[Anavrin]

"Bones? Can you save him?"
"We're too late; he's dead, Jim. And we're in the wrong canon."

That's not true, I could fix it. I could. Heck, thing might even work afterwards.

But... the parts are so nicely sized for a saber that would /really/ fit my hands... and I want a rechargable battery pack instead of the MR battery/speaker... and I could do so much with PVC...

Short of the long? (Too late) I'm going to scavenge the thing to be used in a complete custom, I think. I plan to save the soundboard, Light tube either whole or parted out, and slap it with a removable battery pack.

Deadline: One Month.

Pssht. Totally doable.

(help?)

Quick and probably stupid question: Could the SW616's board be used to control a six-wire buck puck to drive it's LED's all at once and a bit (not by much) hot? Or am I misunderstanding how the BuckPuck works?

[strengthofrage]

There is a thread somewhere about the 616 board that includes a wiring diagram, compliments of Armonfire.

Using the board just for sound and then using the puck(s) to drive the LED separately works best.

[Anavrin]

There is a thread somewhere about the 616 board that includes a wiring diagram, compliments of Armonfire.

Using the board just for sound and then using the puck(s) to drive the LED separately works best.

I've seen that, but I was wondering (and only just realized I explained myself poorly) if I could wire the grey CTL wires to the LED leads on the Joe SoundBoard and get the same power up/down effect. I realize it'd be an absurdly complex wiring job, but if it worked I'd be happy.

Here's my theory, could someone tell me if this makes sense or am I just looking to make something die in a fantastic manner? I am assuming in this sketch that I'm using the board's built in switches. I'll actually be replacing those and adding a kill switch between EVERYTHING and the batteries, as well as just flat being able to remove the things (seriously? Not worth the risk of battery leakage), but that would only clutter an otherwise simple schematic (I'm sorry it's utter waste, but I'm drawing this on a Wacom with my off-hand. Don't ask, I'm in pain).



(Random note: The sled they designed for this thing is fantastic and a royal pain to use )

I get these are remarkably dumb questions, but I'm started my adult life as an English major with a passingly good knowledge of basic techno-work. But I'm by no means a hard-ware geek XD

Also, as a matter of size, how large is a buck puck? Millimeters would be best (sorry, I know it's an odd question, but I'm just hoping someone has one handy)

[wadeh13]

What color LED were you going to use? If you want to go with a green or blue, you can power a CREE LED directly off the 616 LED output and get a very good result. If you want a Red LED you can go with a LUX I and get good results. The 616 puts out just enough power to slightly overdrive those LEDs. I use the toy hasbro cards to direct drive those LEDs and have great results.

[Anavrin]

What color LED were you going to use? If you want to go with a green or blue, you can power a CREE LED directly off the 616 LED output and get a very good result. If you want a Red LED you can go with a LUX I and get good results. The 616 puts out just enough power to slightly overdrive those LEDs. I use the toy hasbro cards to direct drive those LEDs and have great results.

I was going to hard-wire the stock triple LED to run all three from the buck puck (Yes, I've considered two in parallel, I gotta get a meter and test the power needs) at once, and then balance it with resistors to get a near white or amber-ish tone, then filter the bugger. If overdriven, I should get a decent brightness, and I don't think any standard luxeon stars would fit in my design concept. I need something kinda narrow for my smallish hands. I have considered a Rebel, but that would /need/ a buckpuck as I'm pretty sure the 616 can't even hope to sustain that thing's 'sweet zone'.

But I could be wrong and about to cause a fire. Hence posting dumb questions and ideas.

EDIT: Thougha LuxI or Creee wouldn't be a bad fall-back position... Thanks for the idea! (Save a hecka lotta wiring, that's for sure)