Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 1 2 3 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 22

Thread: 3watt driver V2 / 700ma Buckpuck

  1. #11

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Talon69 View Post
    Thanks again for the help guys. I should point out that my belief of the Luxeon driver board giving the scroll effect came from TCSS forum "Ive decided to build a LED saber", this is copy / pasted from that thread.....
    The driver board is a specially designed circuit board that has special features allowing the saber's blade to appear to extend and retract, flash on impact and shimmer on command. The extension/retraction effects are best seen with our new custom coring blades.
    It just gave me the impression that the extend / retract statement was talking about scrolling rather than pulsing.
    It gives you an impression, which means it's not as obvious as the actual extension/retraction you get with a stock MR saber blade. The driver board must be used in conjuction with the Corbin Show blade or the Corbin Battle blades found in the store.....otherwise, you won't see any extension/retractin at all. All the driver board is really doing is fading on/fading off the led....the blade does the rest.

    Got a question? Start Here. Have you tried the Thread Index yet? Most questions can be answered there.

  2. #12

    Default

    Ok so my original post about installing the driver to get a scroll effect would work even if it's more of an optical illusion. It would still appear to scroll as long as I'm using the Corbin Blade. What about the mA(s) the driver only puts out 1A and K2's want 1.5, if i'm 500mA short how noticeable r we taking?

  3. #13

    Default

    Not much really.
    Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex. - Albert Einstein

    Reaganomics not Obamanomics


  4. #14

    Default

    So skip the K2 and use a Lux V....others have done it before.

    Got a question? Start Here. Have you tried the Thread Index yet? Most questions can be answered there.

  5. #15
    Council Member Novastar's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    San Jose / San Francisco, CA
    Posts
    4,082

    Default

    I'd have to agree with Hasid--very little VISUAL and/or "I'm busy swinging the saber around--can I tell" difference between 1000mA on a K2 and 1500mA.

    Also... using buckpucks together is generally not "additive". In other words--700mA puck + 700mA puck = 1400mA is NOT correct. In fact, the pucks will tend to "fight" one another if that's a good way to put it. It's also twice as expensive (and takes up twice as much room)... and simply a big waste.

    The K2s aren't all that big a deal anyhow either. You're just as well with a Lux III roy bl @ 1200mA (a bit over-driven), or just going with a Luxeon V for example to blow it all away.

    And yes, you have to (sometimes) ignore milliwatts and lumens--especially when it comes to making perceptions about royal blue. It's hard to explain but... it's not like it's "dim" or something just because it's not on the "lumens map".
    ~~ GREYTALE NOVASTAR (Writer, Director, Choreographer, Sound Designer, Actor, Saber Designer, Vocal Artist)
    ~~ Balance of Power, EP I: "Into The Lion's Den"
    ~~ Balance of Power, EP II: "Ashes of The Phoenix"
    ~~ The Crystal Focus Sound CD Compendiums... are HERE! ~~
    ~~ Nova & Caine's Staged Combat System... comin' SOON!
    ~~ Crystal Focus Wiring Guide

  6. #16

    Default

    I'm doing the conversion on a Hasbro Anakin ROTS FX saber, would I have enough room to do a Lux5 conversion and keep my Hasbro sound card in the saber? If so then I'm totally going with the Lux5. On that note, where would i get a 7.2 battery? TCSS doesn't sell them and radio shack thought I was nuts when i went in there and asked about them. The guys there told me 7.2 is a very weird voltage and is only used to power Radio controlled cars.

  7. #17

    Default

    Well, I thought you were just building a saber with out sound....adding a V to a MR conversion isn't going to work with out some serious work....I'd keep it simple and just use a Luxeon III or underdrive the K2.

    Got a question? Start Here. Have you tried the Thread Index yet? Most questions can be answered there.

  8. #18

    Default

    Thats why I asked bout the 7.2, if i was going to keep the sound card in the replica i figured the 6AA pack was just way to big. I guess i could use the 9V power supply that comes with the kit, but I've read bad things about using 9v power on lightsabers. Are 9v's really as bad as people make them out to be?

  9. #19

    Default

    9 volts will burn up the sound board....and an actual 9v battery will have terrible run times anyway. The 6-AA battery holder will not fit the Hasbro Anakin saber anyway, so you might just as well forget the V idea, and just stick with the Luxeon III or under drive the K2.

    A 7.2 volt battery pack is simply two Li-Ion batteries in the 2-AA holder, or the Li-Ion packs that Tim used to have in the shop.

    Got a question? Start Here. Have you tried the Thread Index yet? Most questions can be answered there.

  10. #20

    Default

    I know 9v would destroy the MR sound card, I was going to use a 5v regulator to solve that issue, as for the 7.2, being 2 Li-ion batteries in a 2 AA pack, wouldn't that take up less room than the 3AA pack that comes stock with the FX saber? Am i missing something or wouldn't a 2 AA pack take up less room than the 4AAA pack that comes with the K2 kit.
    if thats the case, wouldn't i have more room with a Lux5 7.2, then i would with a K2 4AAA?

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •