some help with wiring plz:10w ledengin(green)cf4.1 +clash flash-shimmer!

[Mad Hatter]

The bargraph does take off when the blade goes on, but that's just the programming inside the CF doing the work on the LED 1-4 outs (which can also be hot in standby mode).

The shimmer output just taps the voltage for the main LED. It's just added to give a convenient pad to connect a feedback motor or accent led that you want to vary with the brightness of the main blade.

[Agash]

I ment the Bargraph board sold by erv.
Also now I really think that making a gate for the shimmer/blade LED is best way to sense if the blade is on or not.

[8lade]

Hello again guys.
I spoke with Erv and he said that he'll repair my cf in march probably
Now apart from that...
Madhatter have a look at this new diagram I made and tell me if this is what you were telling me to do.
Thanks again for all your help guys

[erv]

never would have thought that the crowd would ever enter so deep in the CF use and design, now there's 3.3V everywhere, soldering pads hacked... so GREAT !
I got the hack propose by eandori, however, don't you guys think that you could make a little resquest so that I hack the firmware ?

initially, after talking to matt and other users, it appeared that the notion of aux clash flash was fine to "highlight" (if I can say so) the contact with the blade, aka blaster deflection (hitting the blade) or the initial contact of 2 blades during the blade lockup. It's just a scenario.

getting the firmware hacked is easy, about 10 minutes to :
- add a parameter or reuse one in the config file
- a couple of lines in the code to have a momentary flash for the blaster, but a continuous OR momentary for the lockup depending on the said parameter.

and we reach v4.2...

[Mad Hatter]

Sign me up.

[erv]

lol, thought you will warm up pretty fast
beam me up your board (I know, it doesn't fit in the fax machine)...

[Agash]

count me in, too.

So I can stop now to think in electronic specifications all the time

[8lade]

hi again guys sorry for double posting...
I uploaded a diagram in my previews post...does it seem right to you? Madhatter...Erv?

[Agash]

According to the diagramms I have seen so far from hatter, I would say the general is correct. You just have one brigde in the ground line that needs to be removed.

You are bridging the buckpuck LED minus with the general minus line, please remove that.

Also I would strongly suggest that you solder it bit per bit. First go without clashflash and test all. Then do just one extender with the buckpuck to test the clashflash and then if all is ok do the final step and wire your second extender in there. Otherwise you will through yourself in the corner if it comes to troubleshooting.

[8lade]

According to the diagramms I have seen so far from hatter, I would say the general is correct. You just have one brigde in the ground line that needs to be removed.

You are bridging the buckpuck LED minus with the general minus line, please remove that.
.

I thought that was what Madhatter was trying to explain-connect the led minus to the ground aswell, but anyhow I will try it when I get the repaired cf back.

cheers