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Thread: "Make your own" hasbro sound board

  1. #11

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    Okay, this looks fairly simple....I believe the orange is the positive for the lamp or in your case now, the led, and should also be shared by the positive to the batteries. The blue should be the negative for your led. The black like you have said is for the battery negative. This set up is very similar to the old Qui-gon Jinn soundboard from the 1999 toy of the same name. The swithes going to be a bit difficult for you, as you'll have to solder wires to the traces on the board underneath the black rubber button. It should look like this underneath the button:

    You'll have to solder wires for your momentary button to the traces on the board. This pic shows an old Vader board that had the button on the board as well. The white wires are the switch wires.

    As a caution, I would suggest that you DO NOT give this soundboard any more than 4.5 volts, as it was intended to run a light bulb similar to a flashlight, correct? I'm assuming it ran on two C batteries? you should be able to run a Luxeon III directly from the sound board.

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  2. #12
    Jedi Council Member cardcollector's Avatar
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    Okay, so I just attach a wire to each side of the traces for the switch, and don't use a resistor. All powered off a 4 AA cage- Right?
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  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by cardcollector View Post
    Okay, so I just attach a wire to each side of the traces for the switch, and don't use a resistor. All powered off a 4 AA cage- Right?
    No, if you use 4-AA's you'll burn up the sundboard, as 4 AA's = 6 volts, which is what I said NOT to do. You'll have to use three..get a single AA holder from Radio shack, and a 2-AA holder and wire them together in series to produce 4.5 volts. Attach the positive from the single holder to the negative from the double holder and then use the left over leads to run to the sound board. Use sme double-sided mounting tap to attach the two battery holders back-to-back.

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  4. #14
    Jedi Council Member cardcollector's Avatar
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    alright I'll do that. I will let you know how it turns out- but it may be a bout a week before i get to try it!
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  5. #15

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    Dude, thats the same sound board I have. Post some pics when you're done, will you? I wanna get mine hooked up. Good luck.

  6. #16
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    Will Do.
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  7. #17
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    It Worked!!! here ar the pics as promised...
    DSCN2427.jpg

    DSCN2426.jpg

    DSCN2428.jpg

    Sound board;make your own lightsaber.jpg

    if you look you can see that instead of soldering the switch wires to the threads I put the on the squares above them.

    Thank you so much Jay-Gonn!!!
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  8. #18

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    Good job! You've taken that first step into a larger world! (Sorry, I had to!)

    Now work on replacing the electrical tape with heatshrink tubing....the electrical tape will eventually cause your components to get all sticky and make a heck of a mess inside your saber.

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  9. #19
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    Good job getting it working, but do replace the electrical tape with heat shrink like Jay suggested. That will involve desoldering your connections to slip it on, though, if they are already soldered.


    Is this the first time you have ever soldered? It kind of looks like it.

    You really need to redo your solder connections where the switch goes onto the board. See how you have wire strands sticking out from the sides of the wire on the right? That's bad, they are about to short to the other pads beside them.

    That's also not a good way to solder. If you move that switch a few times, those strands are going to break and the wire will come right off the board.

    You should desolder both the switch wires, cut off the exposed wire and restrip it. Then twist the strands tightly and tin the ends before you solder them back to the board. If you don't know what tinning is, touch your soldering iron tip to the end of the wire for a few seconds till it heats up, then with the tip still in contact with the wire, touch your solder to the wire till you get some solder flowing onto it nice and smoothly.

    When you solder a wire onto a board, don't blob it on, add a little solder to the pad first. Move your tinned wire near the pad, touch the solder on the pad to heat it and reflow it and set your wire down into the solder, remove the iron and hold the wire till the solder cools and sets. Then you will have a nice, neat and strong connection.

    They are some, hopefully helpful, suggestions from someone who solders professionally.
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  10. #20
    Jedi Council Member cardcollector's Avatar
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    I tried to heatshrink one of the connections with a blowdryer for bout five minutes and it didn't work so how do you do it?
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