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Thread: Battery Pack Making

  1. #11

    Default help

    I was wondering if I can use just one AA battery for my sabers. I cant use a AA or AAA holder because there too wide for my sabers. I'm using a LUXI LED for both sabers with no resistor or buck/micropuck. Am I able to go without a resistor or a puck too? Thanks for the help.

  2. #12

    Default Battery Packs for FX board set-ups ???

    I want to add a recharge port to a saber I have already built and need help. It is running a FX Maul board with 4AAA alkaline batteries. In reading the posts, I can't seem to find a saber with an FX board that has a recharge port and rechargeable battery pack. I know people use two 3.7v for US and CF boards but that's too much for an FX board. My question is, is there a 6v rechargeable battery set-up that I can use for my FX Maul board/Lux 3 and recharge the batteries in the hilt without taking them out to recharge.

    If there is one out there, I'm sorry but I missed it.
    Yoda always said there would be days like this.

  3. #13
    Council Member Novastar's Avatar
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    Hideous... the general idea for wiring a charge port remains the same--whether for Li-Ions or Ni-Cad or Ni-Mh, etc., etc. blah blah.

    1. Choose some kind of port & plug combination. For example, the canon 2.1mm port. But you don't have to use that one.

    2. Figure out what the heck is going to be your way to determine + and - for both your charger leads and your port & jack choices. Get them CORRECT--avoid crossing + & - at all costs, lol. Use a multi-meter to verify.

    3. Now it's even more simple. Connect your + port lead... to the + battery lead that goes to the board. Connect your - port lead... to the - battery lead that goes to the board. Done.

    Now, I'm simplifying, but... the general idea is that the port is wired into the circuit via + & -. When you plug the charger into the port... there's your circuit.
    ~~ GREYTALE NOVASTAR (Writer, Director, Choreographer, Sound Designer, Actor, Saber Designer, Vocal Artist)
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  4. #14
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    Rhyen Skytracker's Avatar
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    Most of the NiMH recharable AAA type batteries are 1.2V instead of 1.5V. Putting 4 of them together will give you 4.8V, which is plenty to run a MR board. I have done this setup with a recharge port with MR and US boards several times and haven't had any problems.

    Live long and...I mean May the force be with you. http://saberconcepts.50.forumer.com/index.php

  5. #15

    Default

    Thanks guys. I was thinking of using the new NiMH batteries from the store or something similar.

    NovaI already have a recharge port set-up. I just needed some battery info. I do know how to wire it up, I just wanted to get batteries that could be charged inside the hilt and not get too hot.

    Rhyen, what type of charger did you use with these NiMH set-ups?
    Last edited by DarthHideous; 09-24-2009 at 08:20 PM.
    Yoda always said there would be days like this.

  6. #16

    Default

    Okay, I'm thinking about wiring up 5 of the Tenergy 1.2v NiMH 1200mAh into a pack for a hilt and doing it with a recharge port. I know how to do everything, I just need to change my setup because 2 14500's with a 6v regulator was actually only giving my Ultrasound 4.89v.

    My question is this: the charger that I ordered (the one in the store) is made to charge 4 batteries at once. I will be charging 5 batteries. Will this cause any problems or just take more time to charge?

    Also, I have 8 of these batteries on hand, and I would like to get a little more runtime than an hour, so what kind of combination of series/parallel would still keep the battery output at 6V?
    "You don't stop playing because you grow old, you grow old because you stop playing."
    -Benjamin Franklin

  7. #17
    Council Member
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    Rhyen Skytracker's Avatar
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    DH, I used the red tenergy smart charger from the store. (The red one is for NiMH and the silver one is for Li-Ions) Be sure to get the adapter cable too. http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/21...arger-P36.aspx

    Live long and...I mean May the force be with you. http://saberconcepts.50.forumer.com/index.php

  8. #18

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    Rmmm. Trying not to spend anymore money, as I've got about $2 to spare right now.
    "You don't stop playing because you grow old, you grow old because you stop playing."
    -Benjamin Franklin

  9. #19

    Default

    hi, does anyone know how to wire a 7.2v PCB to the pack, ive been reading around alot and searching a lot but i cant seem to find anything
    thanks ~ rogue

    EDIT: nvm i had overlooked something, but another question: regarding the MHS spearker mount V3, will a 7.2V PCB fit in the space behind the battery pack, if so that would make things so much easier
    thanks ~ rogue
    Last edited by alreadyRogue; 07-24-2010 at 10:27 PM.

  10. #20

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    I'm planning on building my own battery pack and need just a little bit of clarification. I purchased one of these but it isn't practical to buy them for my builds because they force you to pay a $25 hazardous materials fee for any packages that contain batteries. I have a few spare 18650's laying around so that part isn't a problem.

    Since I already know the specs and parts that go into building the pack, I'll be ordering the 8A PCB and the 4.0A Polyswitch. I understand the wiring for the PCB and for the batteries but the thing that is throwing me is the polyswitch.

    The site says that the polyswitch is soldered between cells. I need to understand exactly how it gets soldered because the sites and searches I've done aren't specific enough for me. I'm building an end-to-end pack and I just don't quite get how this switch is installed properly. Any help would be appreciated.
    Last edited by Jedi-Loreen; 03-24-2011 at 06:52 PM. Reason: Removed links to things Tim sells. No disrespect intended. Thanks for calling me out publicly Azmaria

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