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Thread: improvised cluster battery holders?

  1. #1

    Default improvised cluster battery holders?

    i took apart my flashlight today, one of the LED lights from china, and noticed the AAA batteries are held in a frame which puts them in a triangular cluster. now with, say a hasbro board, you dont want to go over 5V, and 3 AA are only 4.5V......how good of an idea is it to use this? i was thinking a good one since theyre packed in tighter which would be great for the cramped space in an MHS hilt. this is probably a separate question....but having them like this, could you use two of them in line and just install a pair of resistors so it wouldnt fry the board? im hoping it would cus im thinking it'd provide longer run time. god i hope this is easy to follow. ive been told my questions/comments are a bit confusing sometimes.

    and yes i was thinking Li-Ion with a charger.
    Last edited by kage_no_mozaiku; 02-18-2011 at 05:52 PM.

  2. #2

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    3 AA batteries are 4.5V if you're using alkaline batteries. If you're using Li-Ion, you're looking at 11.1V. You'll cook something if you put the Li-Ions into a pack like that.

    For the econo hasbro board, a single 3.7V Li-Ion battery will do the job quite well. You can run 2 in parallel for really long runtimes, but that's a matter of personal preference. I get plenty of play time out of mine with just 1 Li-Ion.
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  3. #3

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    I have used the 3xAAA holder in two sabers. The first saber, I used disposable Energizer Lithium batteries, which gave me 4.5V for roughly an hour before they were depleted (and being non-rechargable, they were finished for good). The 2nd saber I used NIMH batteries which gave me 3.6V for a similar runtime, but with the ability to recharge.

    Since then, if I am using AAA form-factor batteries, I have used the 4xAAA pack, and if I need to lower the voltage, I can use a dummy battery in one of the slots.

    Also note that if you use the 3xAAA holder, be aware that as you solder to the Negative tab, you will likely melt the small plastic nub that holds the neg terminal in place. I've done that both times and had to just remelt the nub afterwards.

    Cheap LED flashlights at places like "Dollar General" often contain these 3xAAA packs and the entire flashlight costs $1 or thereabouts

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  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by Silver Serpent View Post
    3 AA batteries are 4.5V if you're using alkaline batteries. If you're using Li-Ion, you're looking at 11.1V. You'll cook something if you put the Li-Ions into a pack like that.

    For the econo hasbro board, a single 3.7V Li-Ion battery will do the job quite well. You can run 2 in parallel for really long runtimes, but that's a matter of personal preference. I get plenty of play time out of mine with just 1 Li-Ion.
    yes....i know theyd fry the board....thts why i brought up the resistors. even with a petite crouton board and three surefires, your looking at 11.1V. when the max is 9. no idea wht it is, but i know theres a resistor that can prevent the other 2.1V from overpowering the board.

    youd have more run time then normal as well. less charging cycles lead to longer battery life.

  5. #5
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    the wattage requirements on that would be pretty astronomical though. it would take up less space to just use a single 18500 to start with anyway.
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  6. #6

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    Yeah. More voltage is not necessarily better. The PC can be run on 3.7, but also has a sweet spot of 7.4v (2 Li-Ions). I'd go with one of those, and any extra cells run in parallel.

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  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by Azmaria Dei View Post
    the wattage requirements on that would be pretty astronomical though. it would take up less space to just use a single 18500 to start with anyway.
    oh yes.....if i do remember correctly, we had this conversation already....lol. thnx for the reminder Az.

    Quote Originally Posted by Skottsaber View Post
    Yeah. More voltage is not necessarily better. The PC can be run on 3.7, but also has a sweet spot of 7.4v (2 Li-Ions). I'd go with one of those, and any extra cells run in parallel.
    and yeah....according to the PDF on the PC board, it also suggests to use two surefire cells. sorry ppl....i have a tendency of over-engineering things.

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