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Thread: New saber design need some insperation.

  1. #71
    Sith Warrior Sairon's Avatar
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    if you have a sled going all the way up to the led it should work.
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  2. #72

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hasid Lafre View Post
    Thanks eastern, Hows your latest project going?

    Well I got to fiddling around with the idea of a chassis, Its going to somewhat come apart like a graflex but it will unscrew and the chassis bars will bolt to the m/m connector scene its got a sufficient wall thickness It might actually work.
    I just hope that when AH gets done with the internal components part of his renders that they will fit with the chassis I made, if not I will have to alter it, but thats no big deal.

    Sid,

    The only thing I see wrong with the chassis, is that you are going to need a heck of a lot more support. you need some more bracing in the form of Acetal discs. Long runs of the spacers are going to be less stable than short runs connected with discs.

    Another thing is the ribbed section may cause some binding unless you hone it out a little.

    I would recommend attaching the chassis to the Heatsink. Not the gender changer. This is how Yoda does them on the Graflex. It makes the saber more stable when the chassis is exposed.

    You also may want to consider doing six supports rather than four. and stagger them between sections.

  3. #73

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    Ok so tim redesigned the m/m connector already with a smaller wall of 1.25" which I dont get at all cause the gender changer was 1.25" and it caused stress fractures IE: it tore itself apart. I figured he would make the ID like that of the ribbed/vgrooved sections.

    But oh well back to the matter at hand.

    Now Morbo while I do agree with you on attaching the bars to the heatsink but I do not think its possible cause that forward section is going to use a switch from an mr/hfx Maul and the other red button that hilt has so I can get that 2 red button affect the arena saber has. Also there will be 2 accent leds so I dont think I will have room for the bars.

    Maybe I could get a heatsink and chope the fins off and attach the bars to the second heatsink, then maybe this way I can use it as a mount for a small led to light the crystal. Doing it the way I intended I wasent going to light the crystal.

    I dont really know what to do anymore about this setup and with my "on paper" design I dont know if the dimentions would be right cause according to the ruler the mhs parts are not even 1.25" on the id so I dont know.

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  4. #74

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hasid Lafre View Post
    .

    Well, I can't really comment on your internal layout or the MHS pieces or anything. But I do have this to say- I really like this hilt design! It really looks prequel-ish, like a clan saber or something.

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  5. #75

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    Thanks G!
    Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex. - Albert Einstein

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  6. #76
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    Another option might be to secure the chassis to some thick-ish PVC tube/pipe if you could get some that fits snugly in the hilt (above the 6.25" mark in your drawing), either up to the buttons and leds, or with a cutout section to accommodate these parts.
    I thought this might be easier than attaching the bars to the m/m section, plus, if you had a length of the PVC it'd be cheap enough to experiment with til you found a decent solution. and it woudln't need to compromise the look, coz it wouldn't be visible.

    Good luck with it, anyway - I think it'll be a sweet saber when it comes together.

  7. #77

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    Well I also plan on having it as a reveal saber when its in desplay mode, so the saber will be opened up to show off the crystal chamber.

    Sence tim redesigned the m/m section attaching the bars to that wont work now. So back to the drawing board.

    Currently Iam working on upgrades to my current saber.
    Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex. - Albert Einstein

    Reaganomics not Obamanomics


  8. #78
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    OK - but wouldn't the reveal/crystal section be the part of the chassis that sits in the ribbed section when it's closed and you'd unscew the ribbed part from the male/male to show off the internals in the space you have between the battery/soundcard and the buttons/accent leds? Or would it show it off in another way?

    I meant the PVC part sat in the male/male and female section where the buttons are, but with maybe 120 degree part of it cut out to accommodate the buttons and accent leds. this could be covered by some sort of faceplate, MPS part, giant washer, one end of the crystal chamber, etc, that looked the part when it's in reveal mode.

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