My first MHS parts arrived!

[Swordlord]

Woo-HOO! My first MHS parts arrived today! Below is a list. I hope to get pics up tomorrow or the next day. I am super pleased with the saber parts. The machining is above par, the finish is nice and the customer service so far has been exemplary.

Emitter style #1 for LED
MHS Choke #2 (very nice part) (I know chokes go against first-saber doctrine. Tough nuggets.)
7" Fluted center section w/ standard switch hole
MPS #7 Pommel (the new one - very sweet part)
MPS Insert style #6

One thing I experienced that I'll rectify for next order. I had Tim drill & tap the retention screw hole in the emitter and the hole was placed precisely along the length where I specified . Probably due to my neglect, I didn't request for it to line up with the switch hole in the center section when assembled. It's a minor discrepancy, but I should be able to adjust it adequately with the addition of an O-ring at the emitter/choke connection.

I think for next time I'll either be dreadfully specific (because Tim does really nice work), or I'll drill & tap that particular hole myself.

Now, to order the electronics & blade...*rubs hands together gleefully*

[Hasid Lafre]

It is to be advised that you dont put an oring between the bladeholder and the choke, the reason being is that your optics will not be sitting right in the bladeholder and will give poor results when swinging the saber around cause the optics will be moving.

[Swordlord]

Hmm..that throws a wrench in my monkeyworks. Perhaps if i put the same thickness o-ring beneath the heatsink it will compensate without damaging or altering the optical quality.

[Goodman]

OR, just put the oring between the choke and hilt, instead of the emitter and hilt. That way on the emitter side you don't mess with the optic alignment, and on the hilt side you can tighten it up until the switch aligns with your set screw.

Done.

[Swordlord]

OR, just put the oring between the choke and hilt, instead of the emitter and hilt. That way on the emitter side you don't mess with the optic alignment, and on the hilt side you can tighten it up until the switch aligns with your set screw.

Done.

That would work on any other choke except #2 (flush fit), which is the one I have.

[Hasid Lafre]

Well sometimes having the switch and such line up is rather annoying, persionally I dont really care as much.

My blade bolt is 180 off from my control box and I like it that way cause how I grip my saber its away from my finger and I still am abel to hit the aux button on my CB easy.

[Goodman]

Hmm. If you're worried about the "look" of your saber, in having two knobs which aren't aligned, then maybe you could use a recessed set screw to hold the blade in? If you used a silver set screw that was flush with the rest of the hilt, maybe the misalignment won't be as obvious as if you used a taller screw to hold the blade in.

[Swordlord]

Here are some pics. The first is of the unassembled hilt components.



Second is the assembled hilt.



Here is a shot of my RLSA Saber hilt.



And last is a shot of both for size and general comparison.

[Swordlord]

Hmm. If you're worried about the "look" of your saber, in having two knobs which aren't aligned, then maybe you could use a recessed set screw to hold the blade in? If you used a silver set screw that was flush with the rest of the hilt, maybe the misalignment won't be as obvious as if you used a taller screw to hold the blade in.

That's a good point. And considering it's my first saber that will be 'complete', I should probably worry more about whether it works (electronically) or not. I can take notes on the construction of this one and work out my quirky aesthetics issues later.