Jet's thread of general saber planning and questions.

[JetSet]

I'm simply starting this thread so that I can have a list of what I want/need for my saber. I was having a hard time getting every little part down on a notepad while still being sure it'd all work together, so I hope noone castrates me for this.

This will be a work in progress, and hopefully a build diary as I plan and execute my first lightsaber build, including pictures and all of my mess-ups along the way.

I began riding my first bike on the biggest hill in the neighborhood and this is going to be no different, plus, would anyone really care if i built something easy*?

Now to start.

I'm looking to build 2 Tonfa/Guard Shoto sabers like this:


http://starwars.wikia.com/wiki/Guard_shoto

I'm going to start 'simple' with 1.5' sink tube and corresponding Tee joint.

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...38K&lpage=none

There are 2 styles of Tee joint that I could find, the one above, and one I'll mention below.
Pros: This has a matching finish to a normal sink tube.
Cons: There's a welded joint on it that's rather ugly and those dimples prevent the sink tube from sliding through it so if I use this I'll have to drill those out leaving ugly holes (cutting the sink tube and putting it on each end can't happen because there isnt enough overlapping for it to be stable imo). On the other hand those holes could be used to house some fun leds or could be an accent color by painting the tube under the joint. Due to one end being already welded on I'd have a hard time making the handle any longer, so hopefully it'll be long enough for my hand. (could possibly use a sink tube to mhs adapter and a pommel to give it some more length.)

The other style I found, that I can't seem to find a picture of is made for a sink tube to screw into all 3 sides of it.
Pros: This would be easier to build with, but would take more sink tubes because it wants threaded ends., but it is a dull color (as in not polished) and has a hammered, stippled type feel (I don't know the name of this but it looks like raw poured metal.) I could fix this by just painting it or something and I've yet to decide which one I'll use.

If anyone happens upon a tee joint for the 1.25'' sink tube I'll scrap this for that because 1.25'' feels more comfortable in my hand, but the general concept will remain the same.

The handle of the saber is going to hold the on/off button and I want the finish to be fancy, and since I won't have any internal size constraints I'm going to go with one of those lit vandal switches. (Hopefully I'll match it to the blade)
http://www.gammods.com.au/store/inde...roducts_id=344

Each one will also have a MRFX Yoda or Vader sound board (as those are the only ones I have 2 of) and I'm leaning twards Yoda just because I like the sounds more. (More than one clash FTW!) 4AA battery pack, Lux III, and a mhs speaker.

I currently have nothing else planned out other than I will be using a sink tube to mhs adapter and a mhs emitter. I am unsure about doing this for both pommels still. I'm also unsure about the blade length and color, but probably not red since Maris' are red.

Just for reference for hilt and blade length: I'm 5'4'', and my measurement from fingertip to shoulder is 26.5 inches. I'll be putting the handle in the middle of the hilt.


*Easy may be relative to each individual user and their experience, results may vary.

[Blue Fox]

you have no idea how much I've wanted a tonfa saber. Miri's were going to be 2x tonfas that could be used as sword sabers and then connected to become a staff saber. Good luck with the build ^_^

[astromech_kuhns]

you have no idea how much I've wanted a tonfa saber. Miri's were going to be 2x tonfas that could be used as sword sabers and then connected to become a staff saber. Good luck with the build ^_^

a cheaper easier way to well i guess the both of you, to do this is pvc. if you want these like actual nice main sabers than ya good old sink tube to the rescue but, if you are looking for maybe jsut as props or not battling or using much then pvc would be cheaper and easier.

a little bit of a run off on the paige but not to bad jsut kinda hard to read. maybe you could edit it and just include a link to the pic? makes it easier on others.

and i dont mind cant say the same bout others but im ok with it. you could ask on this than post stuff on a blog paige if you wanted. i use blogspot.com personally.

any way nice project in front of ya.

[eastern57]

Stand aside, n00blet Let the big boys take this one...

First of all, that's a great picture - you can do an incredible amout with a good start point... which you seem to have. If money were no object then I'd say for certain that you'd be able to have exactly what you want...

If it is, then I say the planning will be most important, especially when you weigh the two main factors: how much can you spend, and how accurate do you want it to be.

I would guess that since you're already planning to use sink-tubes that you're on a budget. Which doesn't prevent you from producing a kick-arse saber, but may take additional planning.

The two things that I would recommend splurging money on is a good blade holder (w/custom work...which isn't that much) and that t-joint (also custom machined). Those will save you a lot of effort in the planning, that you can dedicate to matching the rest of the hilts parts.

Also, when it comes to sink tube... me, personally, I prefer aluminium tube over sink tube - it's more solid and IMO, yields better results. It requires more work to get it how you like it, but you'll be much more pleased with the end product.

But seriously, the best thing you can do in order to really do justice to that saber(s) is:
- plan it out properly
- test your theories
- don't be afraid to make mistakes
- don't be afraid to ask for advice - that's why we're here!

[astromech_kuhns]

i let the "big boy" talk but one more thing if you havent built a saber yet i would do a nice basic saber so you dont end up butcherign your project. and another think is remember you can have things liek electronics stored in the handle not jsut the hilt. just a planning hint

[JetSet]

Eastern: I'm not trying to replicate that hilt by any means, it was simply the only closeup of a tonfa that I could find. I agree with the planning and this is why I've set up the page!

In regards to the custom items, I'm not too worried about a custom emitter as I really like some of the tcss ones, but as for a tee joint that'd be amazing, I just had no idea where to get one or if it'd be in my budget. If I'm going to get a custom tee joint I might be better off getting it 1.25'' since that's what I like better anyway. However I was thinking 1.25'' to mhs didn't look good (mhs is bigger, right?)

I could easily splurge on mhs parts, even custom ones, I just figured the hardest part would be building around that tee joint considering that's the only one I could find. I also didn't think Tim would do a custom mhs tee joing, but then again, I didn't ask.

Aluminum tube is not something I've come across. Is it something I'd have to order online? I live in a fairly small part of Alabama so I'm nearly limited to Lowes or Home Depot for goods, no real specialty shops.

Also note that I do have a dremel, but I just got it for xmas so I'm still a noob at it.

Astromechs: I'm sorry the image is such an eyesore to you but I'd rather have it there than be a link considering not everyone will click a link and this way you're forced to marvel at it. All I can suggest is change from 800x600 resolution so it doesn't force you to scroll right to read. I'm also not worried about butchering anything since I'm already starting with the cheapest (besides pvc) and learning doesn't happen without proper failure.

I think I've nearly planned the basics of the electronics out. Remember that Yoda boards are quite small, I'm running 4AA's and a LuxIII, those alone will fit into a relatively small package, and given the amount of room the hilt (even not including the handle) has I'd say it'll be no problem, room galore. You have to remember that if you take the handle off, and look at this as a regular saber the hilt is already incredibly long.

[eastern57]

Outstanding! With that attitude, I say go for the gold. Really. The higher you set your own standards, the better your product will be... and even if you don't reach it, the only one that will be disappointed will be you.

Aluminium tube can be bought at places like onlinemetals.com or speedymetals.com. I'd recommend the the 1 1/4" OD tube - it ususally fits perfectly in MHS hilt extensions (sometimes a little sanding is required).

You are correct: Tim does not do 100% custom parts, only modifications to pre-existing parts. But there's other excellent machinists around - browse the forums, you'll see who they are.

And when it comes to dremel-fu - stability is the key! Or so I've heard... my dremel-fu couldn't cut cheese...

[JetSet]

Aluminium tube can be bought at places like onlinemetals.com or speedymetals.com. I'd recommend the the 1 1/4" OD tube - it ususally fits perfectly in MHS hilt extensions (sometimes a little sanding is required).

Somehow it just isn't clicking in my mind. 1.25'' tube with a tee joint in the center, mhs parts over top of it. I get that, I'm just unsure of how to get that tee inside mhs parts. if you just slide parts over the front and back there will be a large and probably ugly gap at the bottom to deal with.

If I did some workaround that involved drilling a hole out of the mhs part that I want the handle to come out of, then cutting out a square 'plate' so that I could slide the sink tube into it then replace the plate to close it flush I'd still be stuck with the problem of mhs part over the handle not working since it wouldn't flush with the mhs part it'd be touching the side of. Lots of cutting/sanding the handle part to get a half circle to fit flush with the part it's touching?

Otherwise we're talking about the tee joint just not having the top of the T part on it, but rather has a hole, then aren't I sacrificing stability and am still stuck with drilling a huge hole in the mhs and cutting the handle to match up?

[eastern57]

That wasn't refering to any t-joint, just for hilt parts in general... sorry for the confusion. I still recommend a custom machined T.

[JetSet]

Custom machined T that matches the threading of a mhs part seems to be the better way to go, now that I think about it. Not sure if that's what you meant. Then I could forego even bothering with a sink tube. Go for the gold you said.