2004 "Feel the Force" Obi-Wan Kenobi Electronic Lightsaber

[Ironphoenix]

So, bottom line there's no ghouling an Obi saber from Wally World and wiring it to a LUX 3. Is that what I'm seeing here? Thats a bummer.

[Matt Thorn]

So, bottom line there's no ghouling an Obi saber from Wally World and wiring it to a LUX 3. Is that what I'm seeing here? Thats a bummer.

Don't jump to conclusions. Just because I screwed it up doesn't mean it can't be done. At the very least (or very most), you should be able to get it to run in tandem with a Corbin Lux driver using a DPDT switch. If you haven't already, check out the variety of Corbin wiring diagrams here. One or more of those may apply to this particular Hasbro board. That was one of my first experiments, and I knew zip about electronics. (Today I know enough about electronics to fill the back of a medium-sized postage stamp. )

[Lord Sychsis]

This thread seems to have died a few years ago. But I just received this saber in the mail. I am in the process of gutting it, and looking at wiring. I am hoping it will be do-able. I have a Luxeon Amber LED, and I am thinking of going with a PNP as well as hoping to do a recharge port. I took a battery holder from a flashlight. Hopefully all will go well, if anyone has any input, I am all ears. I don't want to ruin another LED or board.

[shmoetech]

If your going w/ recharge port you will need a battery pack tha is pcb protected, if you decide to use flashlight battery holder you will not be able to use rechargable batteries as they will not charge equally and bad things will happen....My suggestion would be to use a battery pack that Tim sell (there pcb protected). Besides that good luck.....Theres a reason that this is a dead thread.

[Lord Sychsis]

Thank you for the reply, it is appreciated. I think I'll skip the recharge port on this go, and just use rechargables, I managed to set up this hilt better on this go so that I could access the batterys at will. Again, Much thanks.

[simified]

I killed it. I confess. I killed within 12 hours of delivering it from its package.

First, it does flash on fire-up/fire-down. Too bad.

Second, my idea of attaching the leads that were meant for the motor to the LED contacts did in fact fix the problem of "flash on clash." It worked like a dream.

I should have left it at that. Then I thought, "Hey, I've got these pretty blue LEDs in a perfect triangle. Why not keep them as accent lights?" So I soldered the leads from my (amber) Luxeon III directly to the LED contacts. And it worked perfectly. For about two seconds. Then, silence and darkness.

No smoke, no obvious burns or anything on the board. But the board does not react to anything. (Thankfully, the Luxeon III seems to be unharmed.)

But...doesn't this look like a fuse?

It's labeled "F1". If this is a fuse, I wonder if I can simply replace it and bring the board back from the dead?

Either way, even when the board was doing the best I could get it to do, it still wasn't as good as this Hasbro board. The clash sound on the other is better, and actually has variation. The clash sound on this one is pretty lame. So, after resolving the "flash-on-clash" problem, I ended up with a board that was identical in function to the other Hasbro board, but with an inferior clash sound. So, whats the point? Other than justifying the money I paid for the saber, of course.

Anyway, if anyone can tell me if the part in the photograph is a fuse, I'd appreciate it. If it is, I'll try to track down one like it.

Perhaps I missed this as I was reading through all of the pages but what type of momentary switch do you need for this to work properly? Why I ask is I tried this years back using a different board however I could not get it to produce any sound. As I was later told the reason was I needed to use a momentary DPDT switch, I was using a SPST. I actually have this saber and I would not mind giving this a go but I would like to be certain I have every thing I need before hand. Nothings worse than finding out halfway through a project that you cannot finish it due to lack of or the wrong parts. lol

[Nicholas F.]

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hey guy?s i wanted to revive this thread, because as the previous speakers i have some questions about that board. i got it for about 5 dollars at a second hand shop and now i want to install it. now the questions:
at first: can i just cut off the motor? i don`t like the vibrations.
second: as you see unfortunatly the white sensor (swing and clash sensor?) broke off. can i solder it again? and in which position do i have to do that?

[Silver Serpent]

I don't know where to reattach your clash sensor, but it's perfectly fine to remove the vibration motor.

[Nicholas F.]

hm okay, but couldn?t i solder the wires of the sensor (red and white) directly onto the sensor?

[Silver Serpent]

If the red and white wires are the wires for the sensor, then yes. You can wire them directly to the sensor itself.

You will want to mount the sensor securely inside your hilt. If it's free to bounce around, then you won't get good clash results.