Clear PVC glue/cement works like a charm!
This is just a physics thing. It's unavoidable, and reminds me of the similar "systemic issue/problem" with having electronics in the blade: they will fail--eventually.
I've mentioned this before, but... no amount/style/technique of gluing that I'VE witnessed with blades (and I think it's safe to say that I've seen quite a bit of HARD dueling + thick-walled + thin-walled)... will keep the tips on like (say) 90% of the time or permanently.
Nobody needs to agree with me, it's just--it is what it is: during BOP I rehearsals, tips were coming off all the time. BOP II had a much smaller share... as I tried clear packing tape to help with things, and another idea which I'll mention below. Now, I think I'm normally pretty reasonable when I post about concepts--even repeat ones, but... I'm getting sick of this one! Maybe I'm just tired tonight.
Anyhow--if you glued your tip on... IT WILL COME OFF--sometime. Maybe not today, maybe not in a month--but eventually, and that right soon for people like me. NOTE: This *ONLY* applies to you if you duel like you mean it. And if you duel "often". What the heck does that mean. How about at least once or twice a week for 2 hours or more each time (so 4 hours or > per week total).
For those who turn your sabers on for a few bloody minutes--do whatever for a few minutes, and/or "tap" the sabers a bit then put the things away... I seriously doubt you'll ever need to worry about any of this! Don't worry, be happy! heheh
SO... it brings me to the point:
* I started doing a little wrap of clear packing tape on the blades--which seems to work darn well
* I've toyed with (and implemented) using "thick-walled tips" with THIN-walled blades... so that the tip has some "play" in there... to ease the physics that causes the tips to pop off due to PRESSURE and the fact that the blade bends/squashes/crushes/pick-your-term during a hit of decent force.
* In some cases--mainly b/c of the thick-walled tip in thin-walled blade--I don't even use/need glue anymore!
It works EXTREMELY well. This doesn't mean that they never come off. But a few sabers last for 4-6 months, more of them last for 8+... and some... uh--well, they haven't come off since I set them up.
The Flange III sabers blades and tips... have never come off after beginning BOP III early rehearsals, the "250 battle"... and well--up to the present (b-day parties, combat classes, etc.)
We had the following (some months ago):
* Neophyl and I had been talking about clear heatshrink for blade tips...
* I agreed with Neo that it would be MUCH cleaner and probably work a lot better--I'm glad he suggested it!!!
* We still never got a chance to mess with it...
More recently:
* I told Gundamaniac about it a bit ago...
* He picked up a bit of the clear heatshrink at a local store and tried it
* Looks good to me! A LOT cleaner looking, less messy (no sticky, no sticky!!!), and better "thickness" too. Thicker is better, hahhaha
* We did some dueling today (a few hours worth)... so we'll see how the "tip-shrink" stuff/concept holds up over time.
I believe that this will be a *LOT* better... for people like me.
For certain others... it will be totally irrelevant and barely affect them at all.
Still. Give some time to test the gearbidge. We'll see.
Monologue over, hahahah.
Last edited by Novastar; 01-17-2009 at 03:51 AM. Reason: oops, delay that...
~~ GREYTALE NOVASTAR (Writer, Director, Choreographer, Sound Designer, Actor, Saber Designer, Vocal Artist)
~~ Balance of Power, EP I: "Into The Lion's Den"
~~ Balance of Power, EP II: "Ashes of The Phoenix"
~~ The Crystal Focus Sound CD Compendiums... are HERE! ~~
~~ Nova & Caine's Staged Combat System... comin' SOON!
~~ Crystal Focus Wiring Guide
Has anyone tried optical cement? It dries hard and clear, and like the name suggests, it has a very low degree of optical interference.
I mention this only because I have a source for it (my father-in-law is an optometrist). Most folks get it from places that supply laser optics & equipment.
I've never heard mention of optical cement, probably because people don't have access to it, or wouldn't have thought of it.
Try it and let us know how it works.
In order to see the Light,
you must sometimes risk the Dark.
TCSS MODERATOR
BLUE 8 Ready to ROCK and ROLL!
Fascinating 'trick' about using the thick walled tips in thinwall blades!
With the clear heatshrink trick how big a piece did Gundamaniac use and how was applied? To the outside of the blade I assume, or was it put between the blades inner wall and the blade tips 'shoulder' [which might be possible with the thickwall tip in thinwall blade]?
The outside. Just an inch or two or so.
As you saw--Gundam thought about the idea of covering the entire blade, but not only did Lori mention some negatives about that--I was thinking it wouldn't be cost effective, add unnecessary weight (sure only a little) and probably affect the diffusion (although not necessarily in a negative way).
It might be worth a shot to doing to ONE blade (or maybe two) as an experiment, but... it's not sounding pretty to cover the whole blade.
~~ GREYTALE NOVASTAR (Writer, Director, Choreographer, Sound Designer, Actor, Saber Designer, Vocal Artist)
~~ Balance of Power, EP I: "Into The Lion's Den"
~~ Balance of Power, EP II: "Ashes of The Phoenix"
~~ The Crystal Focus Sound CD Compendiums... are HERE! ~~
~~ Nova & Caine's Staged Combat System... comin' SOON!
~~ Crystal Focus Wiring Guide
I use no mess clear drying locktite adhesive. The problems I've had with tips fluing off were mainly due to the tightness(like Nova said) and the hardness of the dryed glue. No flex.
The glue I use IS an adhesive, but it doesn't dry so hard. There is still a flex to the glue once it dries and I've never had a tip fly off since adopting this glue. I also sand down the tip shoulder a bit, since the tip fits tight w/out the glue, and this glue is sorta thick, I need to give it some play.
I don't want to be a negative-nilly, and I can't remember all the glues/adhesives I've tried... but NONE of them have lasted (for ME). And yes... I have tried "gummy/rubbery" ones... although again--I don't recall all the different names.
But that is really cool if it works for you killphil! And yup, I definitely recommend the "gummier" glues/epoxies/adhesives/whatever over something that dries like steel...
~~ GREYTALE NOVASTAR (Writer, Director, Choreographer, Sound Designer, Actor, Saber Designer, Vocal Artist)
~~ Balance of Power, EP I: "Into The Lion's Den"
~~ Balance of Power, EP II: "Ashes of The Phoenix"
~~ The Crystal Focus Sound CD Compendiums... are HERE! ~~
~~ Nova & Caine's Staged Combat System... comin' SOON!
~~ Crystal Focus Wiring Guide
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