Keeping the tip on

[Novastar]

Alright, so let's see here... to sum up (from MY experiences/usage of the sabers):

* "Normal" tips on blades (stock)... = eventual failure
* Tried MULTIPLE various glue types... ranging all over the spectrum of glues and epoxies... = eventual failure
* Added thin layer/wrap of clear packing tape = somewhat messy, gets dirty, frays... extends blade tip survival, but usually = eventual failure
* Tried "thick-walled" tips with THIN-walled blades... it seems to keep things intact longer, but... has other disadvantages, so I'm going to say = eventual failure

* Recently added a clear 1" x 1" shrink tube section. Used the heat to suction cup that sucker down. Sadly, it seems to also = eventual failure... as I had a bunch of them fly off at recent b-day parties after JUST implementing the new method the day before!

The shrink tube stayed on, the blade stayed intact, the tip just flew out. Just as an FYI. This happened with three blades I think.

NEXT TEST:

* Going to add some glue UNDERNEATH the shrink tube 1" x 1" section, but which is on TOP of the blade itself

* Also adding a sort of "lip" of glue at the top of the shrink tube where it meets the tip.

How this new stuff will help (for MY needs) I do not know... but at this point, I'm almost out of solutions... well... other than my other previous ones which included "mummifying" the tips in like 8 wraps of the clear packing tape. Which still needs to be replaced about every 3 months of usage or what not.

Sheesh. All this for a bunch of $4 tips. Yeeks.

But you do have to admit... it renders a saber useless/unsafe when children are around if the tip launches into the atmosphere because the diffuser could fly out... and most importantly--it can be used to blind people...

ARRRRRRRRRRRRRRRGGGGG!! I hate tips. They are the one part that break on my sabers like 90% of the time, whereas I only have a few tiny problems with electronics and switches maybe 3% of the time. And the rest would be... low batteries!

[Matt Thorn]

Has anyone tried Weld-On's polycarbonate adhesives (#55 and #5? It sounds ideal for the job.

[Lord Maul]

Weld on #3 and #16 are both proven to be very affective Matt.

[Matt Thorn]

Thanks, Lord Maul. Unfortunately, I can't find a supplier of Weld-On in Japan, so I ordered a polycarbonate adhesive called "Polycaseal", made by Sharp Chemical. (As far as I can tell, that's the same Sharp that makes the TVs. These big Japanese companies make everything. ) I'll report on how it works.

[killphil]

I don't know if you've tried this or not, but I use Loctite No mess Adhesive/Dries Clear. It's available at most all the major hardware, construction, and dept stores around here.

I've had luck with this. It goes on white, but dries clear. It dries like a silicon gel, so the chance of cracking the glue is gone. I apply a little to all surfaces to be glued, press it down gently & twist to even the coat on the surfaces then separate for about 5 mins. Then I re-apply the tip and exert pressure for another 5 mins or so. I usually push the blade tip 1st into the carpet and hold it there while maintaining a good amount of pressure. It's stable after about an hour and fully cured after 24.

I partially popped a tip once in the 2 years I've been using it on my blades, but the tip was only lopsided (one end came up) I simply pushed it back into the blade properly(without re-gluing) and applied pressure for a few mins, and it was as good as new and hasn't popped since.

Try that if you haven't.

[Matt Thorn]

Thanks, killphil. I found the Japanese version (I think--It's Loctite, and says "reduced whitening," "clean," etc.) and just ordered it.

One question. Why do you separate the pieces after applying the gel, then put them back together?

[Kal El Rah]

Matt the reason behind the separation after the contact is to make sure the 2 surfaces are softened and the pressed together to form the bond. Hope that helps.

[Matt Thorn]

I think I understood that. Thanks.

[Kal El Rah]

kewl, glad you understood

[killphil]

Thanks, killphil. I found the Japanese version (I think--It's Loctite, and says "reduced whitening," "clean," etc.) and just ordered it.

One question. Why do you separate the pieces after applying the gel, then put them back together?

It's to give the glue time to prep set and slightly adhere to their respective surfaces. This way the surface bond will be stronger since the glue is already grabbing.


One other thing I should note, I sand all surfaces of the tip that will be bonded. I sand it until it is a very loose fit (not wobbly with no contact, though). This gives the surfaces a wider margin of error for flexing. Otherwise the tip is on so tight, that the pressure can lead to easy pop-offs during dueling and whatnot.