MR Conversions

[Lord Dottore Matto]

This is an empty MR Maul converted to a stunt with the stock crystal lit up...

Particulars:

Empty MR Maul
950mA Pulsedriver
stock switch
LDM Custom Optics/heatsink Module
5mm HO LED crystal pommel
stock battery pack
Stock blade

The Vid:



The Glams:



Internals:

[Aradian Valentine]

So I wanted to cut my teeth with a zero cost Mod of my DM MR UFX saber. I always liked the look of the double hilt with only a single blade exposed.

I refitted the parred-down, blade less LED strip and capped it off with the focus crystal assembly from the pommel. I also stabilized the Mod with some of the foam from inside the original blade.

I had so much fun and now I am ready for my next saber project.

[Jasten Skywalker]

Here's a picture of my MR ESB Vader (red/orange)that I just finished today with my Graflex ESB CF v2.63 and my MHS ROTJ V2 CF v3.1. I'm really happy with the way it turned out!

[erv]

Complete build log here :
http://www.plecterlabs.com/catalog/a...78&language=en

It's been a long time I wanted to make a Luxeon Yoda Saber.
This small hilt was also a nice challenge to fit batteries, CF and speaker.
Also, I wanted to keep the stock green "indicators" that are fake on the MR version, and turn them into functionnal light-up switches for controlling the CF board.

Monolithic PCV chassis for the (home made) 14500 li-ion battery pack, speaker and board. Overdriven green luxeon V, invisible recharge port, rumbling motor, Crystal Focus 4.31 and custom light-up tactile switches for the blade activation and auxiliary button.

My work started with the modification of the green plastic inserts / bubbles / lenses to make the light-up tactile switches.

►Invisible Recharge Port (centering to be perfected)



►Almost done. I still have to do a Yoda sound font. Good opportunity to come back to some audio work left behind like 2 years ago. I also need to powder coat the emitter in satin black.






► VIDEO
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=neFXna_XALg

[update]
I worked on a little emitter plug. I've PCed the part, not that bad, then weathered it a little since I though that's where the saber can get slightly worn out because of the blade energy.
You can also spot the kill key.

[Darth Securis]

Hello all...I have just finished my first LED saber. I converted my MR FX Anakin to a Seoul P4 Blue. However, it was not a standard conversion. I am going to be doing some choreography routines with it and a common problem was that the MR FX would always turn off unintentionally and the activation box on the 'clamp' would always get in the way and hurts my hands. So I replaced the stock switch with a different one and made the activation box removable. The switch is hidden under the activation box. Also, my MR FX speaker was blown so I put in a TCSS speaker and modified the chassis to hold the new switch and create a resonance chamber for the speaker. Here is a link to all the pics:
http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/e...20Lightsabers/

[Lord Dottore Matto]

When I met Darth Scythe on Thursday, he saw the TruPurple Saber "Gladius V2" and just happened to have a stock MR Mace in his trunk...Well, I have some large projects on the bench, but they all need powder coating and it has been raining like crazy here, so he happened to luck waaaay out and get bounced to the front of the line! He had a special request that the emitter ring have the holes machined out so the light shines through and it was a good idea because it is sweeeeet! As with all color mixed LEDs, this one looks best with a regular Ultra-style blade.

***note- the blade set screw is in the last picture and takes a 1.5mm Allen wrench***

The particulars:

MR Mace Windu
TCSS Aluminum Conversion kit
TruPurple LED and optics
Machined emitter windows

The BMT:


The pix:

[Matt Thorn]

This is a conversion I did for someone who wanted 1) the ability to switch blade color between red and blue, and 2) an on/off switch that would not be triggered accidentally during spins. I also converted it to a rechargeable set-up, using two 14500 3.7V li-ions, a 5-volt voltage regulator (7805), a charge port, and a recharger. (Don't forget the 2.1mm plug adapter.)

For the accident-proof on/off switch, I used a guarded SPST latching switch, and for the color-changing switch, I used a vandal-proof DPDT illuminated latching switch. The blade-retention thumbscrew is one I powder-coated in candy red.

For the main LED, I used a LedEngin RGBA (LZ4-20MA10). I could have gotten brighter results if I used a relay set-up, but the two latching switches didn't leave much room for a relay and one or two hefty 5-Watt resistors. I decided it was bright enough as it is.

Standard disclaimer: The red blade looks orange in the photos, but is a genuine red when you see it in person.

[Blade-Rave]

My MR Anakin ROTS, running a Lux III Blue LED, powered by the stock board.

[Rhyen Skytracker]

Here is a Darth Vader ANH that I converted. The box it came in said it was an ESB but the picture on the box and the saber inside is an ANH saber. I used the conversion kit from TCSS and had to modify the plastic part between the sound card section and the blade holder to fit the conversion kit. I am using a red P4 LED. Here are some pics and a video.

[Matt Thorn]

Here's one I did for a guy over here in Japan. He wanted his Anakin ROTS to be black with a red blade, so I powder-coated the main hilt in glossy black and the aluminum band around the control box in matte black. He wanted a 3/4" blade. Turned out pretty cool, if I may say so myself.