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Thread: 1999 Hasbro Electronic Qui-Gon Jinn Lightsaber board

  1. #11

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    Actually, I must have been really tired when I made that diagram, because with the momentary switch directly connecting the batteries and the LED, the LED will only stay on while the button is being pressed. But if you were to put a momentary-switch Corbin LED driver in that circuit, it should work.
    There's always a bigger fish.

  2. #12

    Default is it working

    so has anyone come up with a solution to this problem yet, ive been thinking about it but i cant seem to come up with anything yet and it directly partains to the project im working on right now

  3. #13

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    Google search led me to this thread that's been dead for half a decade (I am sogonna get blasted for this zombie post). Here's my situation:

    I've got the Qui-Gon telescoping Hasbro saber (from the Episode III re-release) that this thread is about. The telescoping tube is gone, along with all the screws, so I'm thinking of rewiring it to be a part of my cousin's 2006 Ultrasaber Initiate V1, which you guys made with PVC, along with maybe extending the hilt so I can fit everything inside.



    The schematics shown in this thread don't include any mention of the clash sensor or the swinging sensor, so that's a little worrisome, but the main question for me is, if I follow the plans here correctly, will I be able to make it work?

  4. #14

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    Have you checked out this thread?

    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...Sound-Tutorial

    It has much more sophisticated information than this early, crude attempt, but because it covers the whole range of what we call "economy boards," so you'll have to dig to find your model. (I'm pretty sure it's in there, though.)

    [EDIT] Deleted image that misidentified the swing sensor.

    Quote Originally Posted by Wrecker View Post
    Google search led me to this thread that's been dead for half a decade (I am sogonna get blasted for this zombie post). Here's my situation:

    I've got the Qui-Gon telescoping Hasbro saber (from the Episode III re-release) that this thread is about. The telescoping tube is gone, along with all the screws, so I'm thinking of rewiring it to be a part of my cousin's 2006 Ultrasaber Initiate V1, which you guys made with PVC, along with maybe extending the hilt so I can fit everything inside.



    The schematics shown in this thread don't include any mention of the clash sensor or the swinging sensor, so that's a little worrisome, but the main question for me is, if I follow the plans here correctly, will I be able to make it work?
    Last edited by Matt Thorn; 09-14-2015 at 09:48 PM.
    There's always a bigger fish.

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Thorn View Post
    Have you checked out this thread?

    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...Sound-Tutorial

    It has much more sophisticated information than this early, crude attempt, but because it covers the whole range of what we call "economy boards," so you'll have to dig to find your model. (I'm pretty sure it's in there, though.)
    I did not see that. Thanks! Now to find something to hold the motherboard securely.

    By the way, thread you linked says the swing sensor is actually a black and tan part that's not connected directly to the motherboard. I think you're pointing to a resistor.

  6. #16

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    Oops! You're right. The black of the swing sensor against the black background made me miss it the first time I looked. Here it is.


    Quote Originally Posted by Wrecker View Post
    I did not see that. Thanks! Now to find something to hold the motherboard securely.

    By the way, thread you linked says the swing sensor is actually a black and tan part that's not connected directly to the motherboard. I think you're pointing to a resistor.
    There's always a bigger fish.

  7. #17
    Board Lurker Rey's Avatar
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    Hi, sorry for bothering.
    I'm triying to wire a similar soundboard (Force Action) Hasbro Mace Windu lightsaber. The scheme is very hepfull. But it is not clear to me how solve the led problem (the current from the soundboard is not enough to power the led). I tried to add a PNP transistor (TIP42C). I connected, as suggested in others threads, the lamp - from the soundboard to the base of the transistor; the battery positive to the emitter and the led positive to the collector, but it doesn´t work. I have tried several combinations with the same result.
    Can sombedy give me some tip in wiring the transistor?

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