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Thread: US 2.0 Troubleshooting

  1. #231

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lord Duck View Post
    ya let just say dont use any Quick connectors on your rechargable battery pack the batterys dont like that and the Quick connectors turn into a big gob of melted plastic and wire.fun

    i thought something like that. i always cut them off and solder rechargeable batt packs in place. the smaller sized packs you might get away with it, but in that case when i runnem like that, i take it out unplug and charge the pack. the larger ones might have a meltdown though, not sure, could happen maybe.
    Last edited by LAN-ED-TUL; 11-29-2008 at 12:42 PM.



    Lan-Ed-Tul
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  2. #232
    Owner of the Custom Saber shop Strydur's Avatar
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    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...ead.php?t=6649

    Please let me know if something needs to be changed/added
    Tim
    The Custom Saber Shop

  3. #233

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    Thanks alot Tim!!

    Now I have a couple legit questions. Again, please forgive me if I missed this, but I can't see the answer in any of the posted specs/instructions for the board.

    What type of memory is used? Volatile or non-volatile? Basically, will it loose the settings when replacing the batteries/fully disconnecting the power pack?

    Next, what (if any) is the power draw when powered off?
    This Jedi Ranger has a name....Terek Kelrune. Don't forget it.

  4. #234
    Owner of the Custom Saber shop Strydur's Avatar
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    It will not lose the memory from what I have seen. I dont know the specs on the current draw.
    Tim
    The Custom Saber Shop

  5. #235

    Default voltage requirements

    Tim or Ultra:
    Are the Limits or just the requirements?
    Battery input voltage.
    Maximum for board = 12V
    Minimum for Luxeon 3 and K2 = 4.5V
    Minimum for Luxeon 5 = 7.2V

    IMPORTANT! (be sure to use the correct voltage/power with corresponding LED type)

  6. #236
    Owner of the Custom Saber shop Strydur's Avatar
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    min and max would be limits..
    Tim
    The Custom Saber Shop

  7. #237

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    [QUOTE=Lord Duck;112232]
    Quote Originally Posted by Jay-gon Jinn View Post
    Well, what have you got for a resonance chamber? That saber in my vid uses pretty much the entire saber, but there is a 1" x 1" chamber in the pommel.

    well I have about a 3" piece of pvc in the pommel and i hot glued the speaker in to it, not the best but its what was quick. do you have any suggestions?
    what does your saber look like? Is it MHS based? Or is it a sink tube type? I usually just use a 3/4" pvc coupler, cut in half, like this:




    Make sure there's room behind the speaker as well...if you totally close it up, it doesn't have room to resonate, and it will sound very quiet....it must be able to "breathe," so to speak.

    Got a question? Start Here. Have you tried the Thread Index yet? Most questions can be answered there.

  8. #238

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    Made another vid with the radio shack switch mentioned in this thread. Also demonstrating the max sensitivity settings:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V8BOA0_FfGY
    http://www.ultrasabers.com
    Corbin|Strydur|Ultra
    The Holy Luxeon Trinity

  9. #239

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    Just got my US 2.0 board wired up. After putting batteries in it, I don't get any sound or vocalization, but the board itself gets extremely hot.

  10. #240

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    Quote Originally Posted by kevykev707 View Post
    Just got my US 2.0 board wired up. After putting batteries in it, I don't get any sound or vocalization, but the board itself gets extremely hot.
    Make sure your batteries are installed or wired correctly, and that you don't have any solder bridges on the board where your battery wires are soldered on. Excessive heat usually means a short somewhere. It would also help to know exactly what type of set-up you're running.

    Got a question? Start Here. Have you tried the Thread Index yet? Most questions can be answered there.

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