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Thread: US 2.0 Troubleshooting

  1. #371

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    Jase,

    Also think about this. I know this may be a pain in the ass, but try a 9v battery set-up. I think between the led and the board, you’re playing it a little too close to the line.

    If you run to RadioShack you can pick up a wired (4) AAA holder and a smaller (2) AAA holder with some alkaline batteries. Connect them in series and use it for testing purposes to see if it fixes the problem.

  2. #372

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    I have tried...

    with 2 different battery setups. luckily I wired in quick disconnects.

    disconnecting the led with speaker connected and powering up the board=same results.

    disconnecting the speaker with led connected=same results.

    tiny static burp or faint flash of the led.

    I think with out the led the board would at least powerup and I'd get the womens voice introducing the Ultrasound board since there's no draw for the led at all. Correct?

    I don't have another speaker around unfortunately, but the speaker was working during the first couple of tests through the menu and setup before everything went dead. I did try resoldering it to check the connections though and totally disconnecting it.

    I'm willing to try anything else if someone has a suggestion.

  3. #373

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    I'll try removing the QD tonight when I get home and see if thats the problem I have another switch of the same type also and I'll try that too. I missed that in the before mentioned post "QD" took a few minutes to translate in my brain to "quick disconnect"...
    Last edited by Jase Kala Maris; 01-03-2009 at 09:56 PM.

  4. #374
    Council Member Novastar's Avatar
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    Jase... I'm pretty sure it's the board at this point--at least from the perspective of what I've read here.

    I think you've done QUITE a bit of logical stuff to try to troubleshoot it.
    ~~ GREYTALE NOVASTAR (Writer, Director, Choreographer, Sound Designer, Actor, Saber Designer, Vocal Artist)
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  5. #375

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    The symptoms you describe happened to one of the USv2 boards I was wiring up last month. In addition to the other troubleshooting tips that others have suggested, you may want to try a few other things before you declare the board bad:

    1) Rewire the entire board without using ANY quick disconnects, AND use new wires (ensure that they are the proper gauge/length), AND put an inline latching switch on the positive wire. If the board works, then you can trace the problem to one of the QDs or the wires themselves, which was what my problem was. I know, it may seem silly, but for me, it was true.

    2) If the board still doesn't work, then wire in a tactile switch that you KNOW works (maybe from one of your other boards?). I had trouble with two of three tactile switches that I bought, all of them from the same package. I personally tried a package of the switch that you have in your picture, but none of them would get me through the menu more than three times straight without an error. I now use the tall tactiles that Tim sells.

    3) If it STILL doesn't work, then I'd be comfortable agreeing with Novastar that the board itself is the likely culprit. What bothers me, like Darth Mobius said, is that the LED lights up like that. In all my testing (I've seen six of these boards by now), I've NEVER seen an LED which lights up like you described. Weird.

    Well, good luck! These are gems once they're working right!
    Last edited by Goodman; 01-03-2009 at 10:39 PM.

  6. #376

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    ok

    I'll have to get motivated for that in a couple of days. I was oppossed to this at first but I feel like I've done this 3 times already I might as well try taking it all apart and starting over from scratch.

    Lucky I have a couple of paid days off I have to use up. I guess this will be my first day off.

    can you give me the link to the switch in tims store you used, I'm going to buy a speaker also then rewire...

    I hope you don't mean the one you think I mean cuse hell if I know how to mount this one
    http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/SP...itch-P285.aspx
    Last edited by Jase Kala Maris; 01-04-2009 at 02:20 AM.

  7. #377

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    I'm looking at installing a small inline switch in a saber instead of a recharge port and kill plug. Any recommendations on a small switch? (sorry if this is a stupid question, I'm still new to the whole electronics aspect of this).

    How can we be expected to think outside the box when we work in one?

  8. #378

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    There's a vid on youtube that shows how to take apart a regular pushbutton switch from TCSS and put the tactile inside...
    "vibrations within vibrations, traveling at the speed of color"

    "I've got a bad feeling about this..."

  9. #379

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    So does that mean I can use a tactile as a kill switch to prevent battery drain?

    How can we be expected to think outside the box when we work in one?

  10. #380
    Jedi Council Member vortextwist's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by darthdan View Post
    There's a vid on youtube that shows how to take apart a regular pushbutton switch from TCSS and put the tactile inside...
    not a vid but here.
    http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=14818.0
    here's one for the guarded switches
    http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=15031.0


    Quote Originally Posted by Spaznick View Post
    So does that mean I can use a tactile as a kill switch to prevent battery drain?
    no. you need a latching type switch.
    Last edited by vortextwist; 01-04-2009 at 09:25 AM.


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