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Thread: US 2.0 Troubleshooting

  1. #381

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    Quote Originally Posted by Spaznick View Post
    I'm looking at installing a small inline switch in a saber instead of a recharge port and kill plug. Any recommendations on a small switch? (sorry if this is a stupid question, I'm still new to the whole electronics aspect of this).
    I think Spaznick may be thinking of a push-to-break, ON-(OFF) switch (SPST) to act as a reset button, not a switch to turn it on. Am I right, Spaznick? I thought about the same thing, and did some searching. Here's one.

    You can read more about this kind of switch here.

    It might not be difficult to jury-rig a push-to-break switch, but considering how sensitive the US 2.0 is to even the slightest disruption in current, I wouldn't recommend it.

    EDIT: There was a flurry of posts while I was writing that response. If you're worried about battery drain, you'll need a basic on/off switch. I don't know if a tactile can be used that way. Hmm. Maybe I should keep my mouth shut and let better-qualified people respond.
    Last edited by Matt Thorn; 01-04-2009 at 09:41 AM.

  2. #382
    Jedi Council Member vortextwist's Avatar
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    ya but he did say tactile and those are momentary. lol anyways. ya just a little slider switch will prolly work. I think it's just because of the programing of the board that need the low bounch switch. any latching should work inline with power, as long as it can handle the voltage.


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  3. #383

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    When I posted much earlier about a push to break switch inline with the battery positive, I was meaning for it to be used as a quick power reset. Just something to break contact long enough for the caps to discharge and allow the board to reset by holding the button down for a few seconds. Not as a full power kill.

    Sub-mini slide switches are easy enough to come by. I don't know why this question keeps popping up.

    Jase, it seems that you have done more than enough logical testing, and at this point it seems that the board is probably not functioning properly. I have emailed Alex about this, but I have not gotten a reply yet.

    Just as a quick inquiry, has anyone that I gave Jesse's email to gotten a response from him yet?

  4. #384

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    Sorry to interrupt the dialogues going on here, but a couple of days ago I wired up my US2 (with a green P4) and had it working great, decided to go back and set it to Lux3 over drive mode. As soon as the woman said "Overdrive", the LED flickered and went out and I had the humming sound if the saber was on during the menu. I was able to finish setup with the the hum sound but I had no light. The board still functions perfectly, even during menus, but the P4 is done for. Luckily I had another Lux3 to use. Anyone have any idea what happened? I could see this happening once the settings were saved, but this was mid-menu, and the hum sound was very strange.
    Alderaan shot first.

  5. #385

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    You simply blew out the junctions on the LED. It probably pulsed the diode so hard that it just popped. The Rated MAX for P4 LED's is 1000mA.

    Even if you are in the menu, the board sends the current immediately to the LED. If you had been running the LED at normal current for some time, and then applied 1250mA to it in a burst, it may have been just enough of a "shock to the system" to make that particular junction set go kablooey.

    I have noticed that the P4's can be finnicky with the overdriving though, and some can handle up to 1400 with ease while others start to stumble at 1.1A. It may be a QC issue at Seoul semiconductor's manufacturing facilities, or it just might be that "Luck of the draw" syndrome associated with overdriving a component beyond its specs.

    I have also noticed that on some of the seoul LEDs that they have some bubbling going on under the dome. as if the silicone fill in them was not completed fully.

    I would just chalk it up as experience and move on to another LED. Keep those P4's at 1000mA, they're bright enough as it is.
    Last edited by Darth Morbius; 01-04-2009 at 11:23 AM.

  6. #386

    Default rumble motor

    Hey, does anyone know if it's possible to wire a pager/vibration motor to the US 2.0 board? I know Erv's CF boards can be wired for them off of the Luxeon lead. I've got a motor from a Qualcomm pager that is rated for 1.5 to 4.5 volts DC with 11-14 ohms resistance. Any suggestions on if or how this can be done & what resistor woud be recommended?

  7. #387

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    Quote Originally Posted by kazei maru View Post
    Hey, does anyone know if it's possible to wire a pager/vibration motor to the US 2.0 board? I know Erv's CF boards can be wired for them off of the Luxeon lead. I've got a motor from a Qualcomm pager that is rated for 1.5 to 4.5 volts DC with 11-14 ohms resistance. Any suggestions on if or how this can be done & what resistor woud be recommended?
    Well you can run one. That's not the issue. How do you want it to perform?

  8. #388

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    Thanks Morb.
    Alderaan shot first.

  9. #389

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    Quote Originally Posted by Darth Morbius View Post
    Well you can run one. That's not the issue. How do you want it to perform?
    Can it be run to match the Luxeon effects at idle & clash or while moving?

  10. #390
    Jedi Council Member vortextwist's Avatar
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    dont' beleive you can as it wasn't set up for that. either its on all the time or not. Unless you can find a stdp (not sure of that one) switch and wire it from the battery and when you use the clash lock effect then the motor runs. Maybe i'm wrong but sounds ok. lol what ya think dt?


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