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Thread: Star Wars - The Clone Wars - Force Action Lightsaber - Obi-Wan Sound Board Review

  1. #1

    Default Star Wars - The Clone Wars - Force Action Lightsaber - Obi-Wan Sound Board Review

    To anyone that is interested in buying the Obi-Wan force action saber here's a small review.
    To make sure everyone is on the same page, I'm talking about this saber. http://www.hasbrotoyshop.com/Files_A...3db43_A400.jpg

    To get to the board you have to unscrew the hilt and then pry off the top half "tearing the plastic" as it is super glued at the top.

    It is powered by 3 AA batteries. Small board less then an inch long and a half inch wide. Motion and clash sensor.
    It has an on, off, hum, 1 swing sound and 2 clash sounds, which is really the same sound just played once or twice.

    The LEDs are three blue ones arranged in a half circle, with a cut off switch in the middle, the third picture tries to show that.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rSuJdv1F2t0

  2. #2

    Default great

    great. That is exactly the board that I have for several of my sabers. It looks and sounds just like that. It can take up to 4 AA batteries. I cut the stock LED off and use the wires to power a Luxeon. It would probably be brighter with a BuckPuck in parallel. The stock wires on the board are weak so they should be replaced. The solder job is sometimes really bad, so you will need either a solder sucker or desoldering braid to aid in the removal of the excess. The board is very touch too so make sure that none of the metal components are in contact with the hilt. I just taped mine to my 4 AA battery pack with double sided servo tape and used liquid electrical tape on the exposed parts.

  3. #3

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    Yah they are pretty weak, just from straitening out and moving around a bit my speaker lost one of its wires to the board.

    I would suggest resoldering it anyway as the wiring job is a real jumbled mess of tangled wires, at least on mine.

    At wallmart they have dropped in price to $15 so I suppose in all its not so bad, but the sounds are not to my taste.

  4. #4
    Council Member Novastar's Avatar
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    My God... they didn't even "mix" a little bit of the hum sound with each of the other sounds (swing, clash, on/off)...

    And... it's not like that'd be hard to do. Seriously.

    Thanks for posting, although I have to say it's not really a "review", hehehe! But as near as I can tell, it sounds atrocious, repetitive and annoying... and pretty low quality (I'd venture a guess that they are 4-bit sounds... not even 8.)

    BUT... I suppose if it's no sound or... this... I guess some people might want sound.
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  5. #5

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    When you're used to driving around in a Rolls, a Geo doesn't quite seem up to snuff huh?

    I'm working with one of these too, and with a replacement of the LED and speaker, it actually sounds pretty good. It's insanely loud if done properly.
    I have mine powered by Tim's 4-AAA pack.
    Yes, I spell it sabre. I just like it that way.

    New to the hobby or LED lightsabres? CLICK HERE for a listing of the basics to get started!

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  6. #6

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by swear000 View Post
    great. That is exactly the board that I have for several of my sabers. It looks and sounds just like that. It can take up to 4 AA batteries. I cut the stock LED off and use the wires to power a Luxeon. It would probably be brighter with a BuckPuck in parallel. The stock wires on the board are weak so they should be replaced. The solder job is sometimes really bad, so you will need either a solder sucker or desoldering braid to aid in the removal of the excess. The board is very touch too so make sure that none of the metal components are in contact with the hilt. I just taped mine to my 4 AA battery pack with double sided servo tape and used liquid electrical tape on the exposed parts.
    Not really
    I ran the obi board with a 1000ma buck puck to the lux 3 I have and it was lit but not bright.. take that sound board out of the mix and HELLO!
    Momma in law: If this printer keeps printing the same thing I'm going to spit nickles!

    Me: if you start spitting nickles I'm coming over with a bucket!

  7. #7

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ThreeQuadFive View Post
    Not really
    I ran the obi board with a 1000ma buck puck to the lux 3 I have and it was lit but not bright.. take that sound board out of the mix and HELLO!
    Need to put a diode in that circuit and it will be brighter. when you have a parallel circuit like that you need to prevent the current flowing back into the sound board.

  8. #8

    Default

    It was a review of "The important parts" of the saber.
    Trust me if your getting this for the hilt, don't. It took me all of three seconds to decide to rip it apart and permanently destroy it. Its awkward, ugly, the button is horrible, and it has so many screw rivets you would think this was a step back in sabers rather than forward.
    I had an obi-wan and color changing Anakin from RTS I beat the hell out of them and was to stupid to save the boards, but they were like gold compared to this new one, fairly comfortable too surprisingly.

  9. #9

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MoonDragn View Post
    Need to put a diode in that circuit and it will be brighter. when you have a parallel circuit like that you need to prevent the current flowing back into the sound board.
    True but isn't that why we get pucks, to get rid of the resistor?
    Momma in law: If this printer keeps printing the same thing I'm going to spit nickles!

    Me: if you start spitting nickles I'm coming over with a bucket!

  10. #10

    Default diode

    where would the diode go exactly?

    It is true that they are not the best boards in the world but they will have to do until I can get my hands on CF boards.

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