Clone Wars Ultimate Lightsaber - How-to-wire guide

[eastern57]

Clone Wars Ultimate Lightsaber Sound Board

This is a quick, down & dirty wiring diagram for the Clone Wars Ultimate Lightsaber:

A few things to point out first:

- The light source is a ring of 9x High Brightness 5mm LED (3 Red, 3 Green, 3 Blue)

- 3 distinct "sound fonts" (we'll call them: *ROTJ, *SITH, *HASBRO)

- Similar the SW-616, the sound fonts match the three colors
-- Green to ROTJ
-- RED to SITH
-- Blue to HASBRO

- The board supplies +/- 100mA to the light source (only lights one color at a time). It's sufficient to "light" a Lux3, but just barely...

- The default setting for board alternates between the 3 colors/sound fonts, on each activation, unless a "crystal" is used (in this order: HASBRO, ROTJ, SITH).

- Separate PCB has three momentary switches - one per sound font. When one is held down, the board will only sctivate that sound font. When two are held down, the board will alternate between the two. In the saber, the crystals are what hold the momentary buttons down, if you're using the board in a custom, mom switches should be replaced with latching switches.

- Clash/Swing sensor is located on "emitter PCB" (white cylinder).

- Album of the internals (guts): http://s306.photobucket.com/albums/n...tern57/Hasbro/


*ROTJ - Has the distinct ROTJ activation sound
*SITH - Distince Sith activation/deactivation and hum (think Anakin & Ventress in the Yavin rain)
*HASBRO - Classic Hasbro sounds in all it's crappy glory



Color Coded wiring chart:





White Dots:

Yellow wire - common return for the 3 momentary switches (brown/white/red - switches don't have polarity)

Brown wire - momentary switch that selects ROTJ sound w/Green LED/wire

White wire - momentary switch that selects HASBRO sound w/Blue LED/wire

Red wire - momentary switch that selects SITH sound w/RED LED/wire

Orange wire - Clash sensor #1 (works with white wire)



Magenta Dots:

Red wire - Negative (-) for Red LEDs, activates w/SITH

Blue wire - Negative for Blue LEDs, activates w/HASBRO

Green wire - Negative for Green LEDs, activates w/ROTJ

White wire - Clash sensor #2 (works with orange wire)

Black wire - Negative from battery pack




Cyan Dots:

Black wire - Common Positive (+) for LEDs (red wire. green wire, blue wire). yes, I know it's black, but it's still the positive

Red wire - Positive (+) from battery pack



Yellow Dots: speaker connections (no polarity, doesn't matter which is which)



Good Luck!


eastern57

[FenderBender]

Eastern, you said that it only supplies 100ma at a time to the light source, but is that without considering when a mom switch is depressed and lights more than one color?

[Darth Leximus]

So let me see if I grasp this....

If I wanted to run this for sound only, with a seperate puck for the LED, I could remove all wires pertaining to the leds, leave the orange and white for the clash sensor, wire up the battery and speaker accordingly and finally wire a new switch to the one thats on the board and this should work in such a way that every time I cycle the saber on and off it will cycle through the 3 different sound fonts.

Sound about right?

[Novastar]

It does sound right (although I don't have a board to confirm that)... but I will at least say... you COULD use the boards's LED leads for "accent" LEDs. Seeing as they are already there... not a bad way to go.

[eastern57]

... but is that without considering when a mom switch is depressed and lights more than one color?

It will not run more than one color at a time. Think of it as 3 modes: it will only run in one mode at a time. One Hundred milliamps is an average.

So let me see if I grasp this....

If I wanted to run this for sound only, with a seperate puck for the LED, I could remove all wires pertaining to the leds, leave the orange and white for the clash sensor, wire up the battery and speaker accordingly and finally wire a new switch to the one thats on the board and this should work in such a way that every time I cycle the saber on and off it will cycle through the 3 different sound fonts.

Sound about right?

Yes. But in addition to keeping the orange and white wires, you'd have to keep the sensor too - it controls both the swings and the clashes.

It does sound right (although I don't have a board to confirm that)... but I will at least say... you COULD use the boards's LED leads for "accent" LEDs. Seeing as they are already there... not a bad way to go.

My Guy - Always thinking! It's actually perfect for that!

[NewberL337]

And just to be sure this Clone Wars Ultimate Lightsaber is the kit for $35 that has all the different little pieces you need to customize different sabers right? Cause I planned on buying one of those at some point and guttin' it.

[Clockwork]

It will not run more than one color at a time.

If you put more than one crystal in it, it will activate both colours. So both Blue and Green LED's will turn on if you have the blue and green crystal in it. At least that is how it is with mine.

[FenderBender]

Right, so then it should put out more power.

[eastern57]

If you put more than one crystal in it, it will activate both colours. So both Blue and Green LED's will turn on if you have the blue and green crystal in it. At least that is how it is with mine.

Really? I guess there's variants then. Maybe I missed something. I'll check again. Thanks, dude!

[Clockwork]

Right, so then it should put out more power.

Or supply each LED with less amperage. I will test it out when I have time to gut the saber