Ever have a MR S/B fry?

[Firebird21]

To get a matte finish you (for most systems) only have to add a Flattening agent into the clear. No big deal.


I never even thought of powder coating!
That may be the way... It's very durable.
You can get home kits, but you need a dedicated oven. You don't want to bake cookies in the same oven you bake powder coating.

You'd have to call around for a profesional place for that... Hot Rod and Custom shops may be a good place to start.

Edit: You may loose some fine detail with powder caoting, it tends to be think sometimes.

Have you read your Thread Index today?
FAQ

[LAN-ED-TUL]

yeah, i know of a place in tulsa. i live about 40 minutes from tulsa and i work there. so not really out of way. as a matter of fact, the place i know of is only a few miles from work. they do powder coating. i could take the boxes there and see how much theyd charge me to do them in black. i think the black boxes we got the first time from allied electronics were actually powder coated anyways. and that finish is tough.


no real details to lose on these boxes firebird. all the details are the bolt on bolts and lenses and hose through slots. other than the that, theres no detailing. so thats not a issue there. this may be the way to go then. i will delve into that some more, once i get the boxes, i will takem by there and check it out. first i'll have to make the slot cuts and drill my holes and switch slots.
You dont know the POWER, of the dark side...

[Do-Clo]

Great idea, I would have never thought about powder coating, that is one tough finish and it looks great. Firebird glad you found your problem.

Do-Clo
Don't make me destroy you...

[LAN-ED-TUL]

whoooo hooooo, i may have hit the solution with the powder coating, cool. see us older guys still have some smarts left in us, lol

senility hasnt snuck in yet. lol

You dont know the POWER, of the dark side...

[LAN-ED-TUL]

hows the saber holdin up firebird? still workin?

You dont know the POWER, of the dark side...

[tetmatek]

had Some problems with the power wires doing that same thing. I Remove the wires totally and install this cool plug. This totally took care of all those type problems. As for Imron it's 1950's tech but like firebird says is durable. The problem is it keeps hardening up to the point it cracks over time. If you want i can handle any refinishing needs. The shipping will be what stinks. I can refinish any of this stuff and prety much guarantee it will stick. I've Painted shower curtains to test adhesion promotors and it worked. You can even ball up the curtain and it will stick if prepared properly. This is a demonstartion all paint co. use to showcase their plastic refinish products. Just get in touch if ya need any of that. by the way i bake everything so it's cured when i'm done. Now here's the plug i use on the MR boards

[Do-Clo]

tetmatek that connector looks very familiar as it is used on many low priced two way radios as a battery connector or as a speaker connector. I will keep you in mind on painting and will drop you a line later.

Do-Clo
Don't make me destroy you...

[Tiberius172]

Firebird,

Hey guy, I've got a very similar problem with my Anakin MR saber. When you first turn it on everything is fine. Then it will "clash" on its own. Once it starts this it keeps getting faster and faster untill it's just a constant clash. Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Tiberius

[Firebird21]

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Tiberius172

Firebird,

Hey guy, I've got a very similar problem with my Anakin MR saber. When you first turn it on everything is fine. Then it will "clash" on its own. Once it starts this it keeps getting faster and faster until it's just a constant clash. Any suggestions?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">


I would cut and re-solder the wires that go to the LED circuit board (carefully!). The clash sensor is that small tube that looks like a capacitor attached to the LED circuit board.
If you've converted it, you may likely have done the same thing that happened to this one. The wires are probably only still attached by the plastic coating, as a result of moving it around too much and it makes contact intermittently.

Good luck.


Have you read your Thread Index today?
FAQ

[Tiberius172]

I'll give this a try. If it still does the constant clash thing, I'm just going to remove the clash sensor so I'll just have the motion & power up/down sound.

Thanks!!
Tiberius