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Thread: Balance

  1. #1

    Default Balance

    Hey, I've read some stuff about how the LED blades are unbalanced with the hilt. Is that true? Is there a way to change this? Does anyone know anything good to use for a counterweight?

  2. #2

    Default

    I think the balance issue is completely dependent on the design of the saber. When I build a saber for a customer, the balance point is usually within 1" of the emitter. To much farther out the blade and the saber is too tiring to swing around, too far back on the hilt and the saber is also hard to swing around and it tires my forearms.

    The latest saber I built (the pictures are in the "Show us pictures of your sabers" thread), the balance point is right at the junction of the blade and the holder. I can swing that sucker fast and spin it really well and not get a tired arm.

    ...how will you know the light unless you have seen the dark? How will you know the good unless you have flirted with the evil?

  3. #3

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    <blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Jonitus

    The latest saber I built (the pictures are in the "Show us pictures of your sabers" thread), the balance point is right at the junction of the blade and the holder. I can swing that sucker fast and spin it really well and not get a tired arm.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">Awesome. That's exactly what I want.

    I wanted to use the MHS with a sink tube over it. How would I change the balance for something like that? Just move the batteries around and stuff?

    Oh, and do you use film, or a MR/Tim-style diffuser? It seems that the CSS diffuser might make the blade real heavy.

  4. #4

    Default

    Nightwing,

    Tim's diffuser is actually very light, almost nothing. It's the actual 1" Poly blade where I would say 95% of the blade weight comes from. I actually have two blades. 1 is the thicker dualing blade and the other is closer in thickness/weight to a MR Tube. I believe the wall thicknesses are .125" vs. .0625". Big weight difference.

    Tiberius

  5. #5

    Default

    Okay, so how exactly would you go about making an MHS balanced?

  6. #6

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    <blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Nightwing

    Okay, so how exactly would you go about making an MHS balanced?
    <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

    Just get the ribbed section. With it and the 40" blade, the balance point is about 1.5 inches above the emitter, which is perfect.

    http://www.ultrasabers.com
    Corbin|Strydur|Ultra
    The Holy Luxeon Trinity

  7. #7

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    <blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by UltraSWGJust get the ribbed section. With it and the 40" blade, the balance point is about 1.5 inches above the emitter, which is perfect.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">Hmm... That would conflict with my design, which basically has just the regular style 1 parts with a sink tube over it. What if the blade was 34", rather than 40"?

    Oh, and Ultra, I'd like to apologize for the way I was acting in the "Darth Maul" thread. I was a little heated at the time.
    Oh, and I think your saber conversions are great. []

  8. #8

    Default

    Darth Maul thread? What Darth Maul thread? []

    A shoter blade will have the same effect as a longer hilt, it's all about leverage, so that should work.

    http://www.ultrasabers.com
    Corbin|Strydur|Ultra
    The Holy Luxeon Trinity

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