n00b! So you want to build a MHS saber huh?

[Rough Trade]

The current link is just for the LED module. You still need a battery pack, resistor/buckpuck, switch, etc..

I'm glad I double checked. I'll dive in and start exploring battery packs... Thanks for your response!

[garymorris]

are there any tutorials with photos of how to hook up a16mm Anti Vandal Momentary switch i am very new to this

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

are there any tutorials with photos of how to hook up a16mm Anti Vandal Momentary switch i am very new to this

First off, Welcome to the Forums!

You will need to take time to go through these forums and read up on things. You can start with the links in my signature. You only mentioned a switch, but not what you are connecting to it.

Go through this thread and I'm sure you'll come up with several diagrams that show how to connect a 16mm AV switch.

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...ing-schematics

If you have more questions, please start a new topic in the Questions and Answers area, once you have done some basic research on your own, and then I, or one of the other experienced people will help you out.

[TensePhilly]

I need help; So, apparently you can get a heatsink with your blade holder, but you can also buy a separate one too... So what's the difference?

[Onli-Won Kanomi]

Some people may have already built an MHS saber and just want to change whatever bladeholder they were using before to a new one but since they may already have heatsinks with LEDs mounted on them that they want to use they can just buy the new bladeholder without one. Other people who are building sabers new and don't already have a heatsink would probably want to buy one along with the bladeholder they choose, or several if they want to be able to 'swap' LEDs of different colours in and out of the same bladeholder.

There are several types of heatsinks to choose from, some designed to work best for single-die LEDs like P4s or rebels and some designed to work better with multi-die LEDs like LEDEngins or tri-rebels that allow extra holes for additional wiring on such LEDs. There is also a 'flat' heatsink for space-limited saber builds where there isn't much room for 'cram fu' that sacrifices the long copper lug behind the usual heatsink face to allow more room in the hilt behind the heatsink for fitting other components. There are also 'old style' heatsinks for people who might want to change their LED on a saber that uses an 'old style' bladeholder they may already have.

[TensePhilly]

So if I buy a blade holder and pay 9$ more for a heatsink it'll have color?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

No, It means that you would have a heatsink to use with whatever LED you decide to buy. LED's can be sold separately. I think you are confusing the pre-wired MWS parts, with a standard blade holder and heat sink. Start a thread in the Questions and Answers thread, with what EXACTLY you plan on doing, and we will be happy to take a look at it.

[Celtic Jedi]

I might get opposite answer on this question but what do you think is best for a basic LED Lightsaber on Resistor or Buckpuck .

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

I might get opposite answer on this question but what do you think is best for a basic LED Lightsaber on Resistor or Buckpuck .

It depends [TM]. Generally, your best bet for a single die would be a single cell Li-ion and a resistor.

[Cperruccio]

5 Years ago when the tutorial was written the link in step 5 was to a different product that we no longer carry. The current link is just for the LED module. You still need a battery pack, resistor/buckpuck, switch, etc..

Besides those three is there anything else we will need?