Finally building my first LED saber.

[MaverickJsmith]

I'm having a new bladesholder made for it. So that's covered.

Also, I mispoke earlier about the ID of the saber. It's actually 1.240" in diameter or thereabouts. My calipers aren't designed to measure tubes I believe.

As for internal space *takes a fast measurement* It appears I have about just under 6 1/8th inches inside to work with. that's not a lot, considering the Ultrasound is 2 inches long. Plus battery pack, speaker in it's mount dear god I might have a problem.

Maverick

[Sairon]

what is the lumen count of a blue p4 cause that is the color maverik wants.

[eastern57]

what is the lumen count of a blue p4 cause that is the color maverik wants.

not as much as a LuxV, I'm guessing.

6" x 1.24" is plenty to fit two AA-sized 14500s and an ultrasound... unless the LED and stuff has to fit in there also...

and Sairon, I swear I'm not following you around the forums tonight - you just raise good counterpoints

[Sairon]

it's okay I wasn't planing on you doing that.

[MaverickJsmith]

I have an interesting problem with this project. When I first got this saber, it had a fantastic little green LED that lit up when you turned the saber on.

I have since lost that LED but that's not my problem. I'm going to replace the LED, and I want it to do the same thing as it did before. However, here's the interesting part.

Since I'm going to be using my Ultrasound V2 in this saber, I can't have the led simply running off the switch, because it'll be momentary. I also can't have it running off groung completing the LED's circuit, because the circuit is always "on" as the board sleeps. So the only option I see is to run the little LED off the main LED's circuit. Which is fine, throw a resistor in and it'll be fine. The problem is, if I run the main LED in flicker mode, the little led will flicker as well. So, I have to find a solution to rectify the current running to the little LED to make it not flicker. The obvious one is to always run the main LED in non-flicker mode. But why would I do that? It's a feature on this board, so why not use it?

Any suggestions? Do I need a simple rectifier? Or will just a resistor do it?

Maverick

P.S. Saber renders coming, I'm working on them as I speak.

[MaverickJsmith]

Wow, this thread was going strong and then died. No opinions besides LEDs? You folks must have more to say

Anywho, I just got an order finalized for some parts I need for my saber. More news when I get it.

And now for a question. I've heard some opinions, and now I want to hear from you guys.

Rechargeable, is it worth all the set up? It's a fair ammount of wiring, and I've only wired simple circuits before.

Opinions opinions!

Maverick

[swear000]

recharge depends on how often you plan on using your saber. I like the concept and have put recharge ports in the end caps of my two main sabers. I may just use regular batteries in the others because they will likely not be used as much or can be upgraded to rechargeable later. Li-Ion rechargeable are probably the best option. Only thing is that the packs will not fit in smaller diameter hilts (namely the 1.25").

With the LED, you could probably run the accent led directly from the battery rather than the driver board that will power the luxeon.

[Sairon]

For batteries I'd go reachargble because in the long run it will save a lot of money. and I'm not the smartest person in the world and some electronic things I haven't learn't yet so that's whay I didn't post earlier, I just didn't know the answer.

[MaverickJsmith]

Well the thing about running the accent led is ill be using my ultrasound v2 in this saber. So if I run it off the battery, as the board sleeps the led will be dim, and drain the batteries more. But when I turn the saber on it will be full brightness.

Am I correct?

Oh and, what gauge wire should I use?

Maverick

[eastern57]

Well the thing about running the accent led is ill be using my ultrasound v2 in this saber. So if I run it off the battery, as the board sleeps the led will be dim, and drain the batteries more. But when I turn the saber on it will be full brightness.

I'm not entirely sure what you're saying with this one. I thought you were going to run it off the main LED pad w/resistor. Are you saying you want to run the accent LED in parallel with the sound board? If that's the case, a recharge port world be almost necessary...