CF4 10W with the Works - Tons 'o Pics

[Obi-Dar Ke-Gnomie]

Holy cow! That is one amazing saber!

I'm honestly overwhelmed by the awesomeness! I can't imagine how you packed all of that stuff in there! And the custom LED aux switch just floored me.

This one belongs in the 2009 calendar for sure!

[Lord Dottore Matto]

One word...INSANE!!!!!

Another word..."10/10"

[erv]

I guess I come in second place installing the 10W, telum infensus has been serviced and upgraded last evening.

Brillant work, I'm so happy our email discussions, despite my lack of time (compensated by your personnal heap of patience), lead to this impressive wiring and hilt design. I mean... whoa...
it's just not fair you didn't have access to PCB making and SMDs for your logic gate system, I wish you had a local friend to help you for that, but at the end, it fits anyway.
Congrats,
like many saber I've seen, I'm really proud to see CF boards in those innovative sabers !

about the 10W : he (we) is not using the 10W thru CF. 2 dyes are wired in serie, which needs close to 8V to be ran at 1A (the max for a ledengin). It work since the batteries start at 8.4V but it's almost immediatly in direct drive with CF since voltage from the pack will drop down quickly.
However it's supposed to be about half of the lumens @1A, around 260 lumens aka 5W.
Then the clashflash effect trigger the buckpuck for the additionnal dyes, but this doesn't flow thru the CF electronics, CF is just the remote control for the buckpuck.

on my side, I've put the 4 dyes in // @1.5A, meaning each dye uses 375 mA, leading to about 227 lumen of green, much better than 130 lumens of a K2 or 160 of a lux V. Could have gone 2 pairs of 2 dyes in serie, but I prefer battery life at a specific and regulated current than having the real luminous flux for just the beginning of the battery life.

again amazing work !

Erv'

[Mcich]

holy shnizzle fish batman, that is one sweet saber O_O

[Hasid Lafre]

That is alot of fricking wiring, I would hate to see the repairs if anything were to go wrong.

Jesus god thats alot of wiring!

[LeMoel]

could you give us the exact led part number # plus what you used for optics???

[xl97]

how did you cut that PC'd sinktube/shroud??

my hand? dremmel? or have it done?

[xwingband]

That is probably not running at 10W... especially since he's running seperate dies. He's also by passing the CF for the buckpuck to power the LED. The CF still id giving the effects because of the power extender, but he's got the buckpuck doing the heavy lifting.

Is the logic circuit simply your li-ion protection?

[Mad Hatter]

Thanks for the compliments everyone! I'll try to answer all the questions...

The 10W LED's are made by LedEngin. You can buy them at Mouser.
The optic is just a standard optic from the saber shop. I think I have the 10 degree in...
The micro connectors come from here.

@xwingband - The logic circuit is a home made circuit using a quad AND gate, hex inverter, and dual op-amp. The logic diagram is on the first post. It is used to turn the lights on and off, and switch from red to blue, using the 4 CF outputs as inputs. It is powered by the 3v output on the CF.(The li-ion pack has its own pcb circuit and fuse inside the shrink wrap.)

xl97 - All the sink tube was cut by hand with a dremel tool. I drew the patterns in photohop, printed them on sticky label, and put that on the tube. No special trick... just keep your hand steady. Oh... one special trick: if you are using a tungsten carbide cutter, wear latex gloves. It cuts the metal off in little slivers which will all go in your hands..

As for all the questions about powering the 10W, Erv already answered, but I'll restate... I've split the 10W into two sets of two dies - so basically, I have twin 5W. One powered by the CF, and the other powered by the puck.

The CF has plenty of juice to overdrive one 5W assembly at 1A. (The red doesn't even require a full charge.) The 1A buckpuck powers the other two dies, and is controlled by the CF. Battery life is great. Especially on the red. I've never run out of juice, but I'm sure I'm getting at least a half hour, and probably more.

With the pulse effect, the CF only has to push 1A at the top of the pulse. And the clash only fires on impact. Basically, the main blade driven by the CF is a little brighter than a normal 5W LED, and the clash effect from the buckpuck makes it WAY brighter than a 5W.

[Clockwork]

I know TroyO has also used the LedEngin LEDs (although in green) He and I are working on using the RGBA aswell. TroyO mentioned that his saber got quite hot to touch near the LED. Did you have this problem? Did you solve it?