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Thread: CF4 10W with the Works - Tons 'o Pics

  1. #111

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    I'm looking at one of those speakers right now, it looks like the actual leads from the speaker are stranded coper wire that comes out of the housing and is soldered to the terminals mounted on the sides, I don't think you'd hurt it if you sniped the wires then removed the spars for the terminals and soldered your speaker wires directly onto the coper wire leads.

    you also have to figure out how to mount the thing, I'm trying to find something with the right outer/inner diameter to glue mine to.

  2. #112

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    Quote Originally Posted by MasterRoop View Post
    the silver part that's on top of the saber. the thing thats on the bottom of the last pic that you put. what is it made from?
    If you mean the part on the bottom of the very last pic, that's the chrome sink tube shroud.

  3. #113

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    I removed the leads and am planning to attach them in the lower space (maybe glue them). I don't recommend using the copper wires directly since you never want to pull on them too hard. You'll never be able to attach them again. I would try to put the solder leads somewhere else.


    Quote Originally Posted by Darth_DevilGuy View Post
    I'm looking at one of those speakers right now, it looks like the actual leads from the speaker are stranded coper wire that comes out of the housing and is soldered to the terminals mounted on the sides, I don't think you'd hurt it if you sniped the wires then removed the spars for the terminals and soldered your speaker wires directly onto the coper wire leads.

    you also have to figure out how to mount the thing, I'm trying to find something with the right outer/inner diameter to glue mine to.

  4. #114

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    Hey Jedi-Diah,

    Have you sanded off the nubs on the side of the speaker yet? With the nubs removed and copper wires rerouted, can it now fit in your hilt? I know it's not an MHS, but it's ID is close enough to what I'll be using for my 3W speaker.

    Merry Christmas, bro!

  5. #115

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    Yes, I cut them off with a sharp knife. It will fit inside a prescription bottle now.

    It looks like this now:


    I will glue the solder leads on like this:


    Use epoxy or something but not a hot glue gun since it will come apart when you solder them.



    Quote Originally Posted by Goodman View Post
    Hey Jedi-Diah,

    Have you sanded off the nubs on the side of the speaker yet? With the nubs removed and copper wires rerouted, can it now fit in your hilt? I know it's not an MHS, but it's ID is close enough to what I'll be using for my 3W speaker.

    Merry Christmas, bro!

  6. #116

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    Thanks that's good to see. I'll be working on mine next weekend.

  7. #117

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    Hey madhatter, is there any way you can make a full diagram of the cf4/p.extenders/buckpuck etc etc?
    What kind of trimpot do you use for the clash/shimmer?
    Thanks

    PS:as stated before...this saber is bloody amazing!

  8. #118

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    Thanks
    The diagram on the OP is the whole circuit (I didn't leave anything out). I think I used a 1kohm potentiometer to tune the flash, but anything 500-2k would probably work fine. The resistor on the buckpuck was probably 100ohm, but that doesn't have to be exact either.

  9. #119

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    Thank for the swift reply!
    So only use connect the ctr +ref together using a resistor and then connect them to the extender?what about the main red and black wires of the buckpuck?to they go straight on the battery?
    thanks again sorry if I am being thick but I have just basic knowledge of electronics

  10. #120

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    Just in case you never get tired of hearing it.... That is the most awesomest saber ever. Can it be topped? Maybe... but not easily, and if so it would still hold a place of honor.

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