LOL...Understood
LOL...Understood
Nice...
Originally Posted by eastern57
Makoto contacted me to sell his LEDs and I directed him to Tim. Outside of that, it's Tim's show...
...and it looks like he will be stocking Makototsai's LEDs soon...
Sanding the blade doesn't work. In the early days, a lot of people sandblasted the inside of the tube saying it was ultimate and the results are really poor. Blasting / sanding just create a little diffusion effect on the surface, you need something related to the material itself, diffusion done in the "thickness".The MR blades use the milky difuser and the foamy insert. The difuser can easily be mimicked by sanding the blade either on the inside or outside. The foamy thing... I suppose go to a craft store and get some foam
I actually sand the outside of my blade to improve the diffusion and also because I like the look it has, very smooth, but it's not sufficient, we still have to use the diffusion film.
But I suspect a solution should point out very soon.
Foam : I found a supplier for custom foam profile. If you use the same foam I've sourced (foam film), which is probably what hyper uses as first coating on his blade, and if you roll many layers, you'll end with a seam, that's why a custom foam profile is the way to go.
That's a bit too early to talk about that, but I think those blades are generating interest, and concrete solutions will pop out very soon.
Erv'
Props Electronics
http://www.plecterlabs.com
Hmmm. I'll keep trying things... see what comes up.
I still think that we have similar or the same leds in North America. Think where would hyperdyne get them then? and really i cant see them having any brighter leds then what are available to us,specially since seeing the specs he gave
plus i am also starting to think that Makoto's "purple led" is the same as our 5mm "pink led" ,which is actually purple
heres my old test of this form of saber blade
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ilr7A1x0YKE
and theres many comparison/ pictures in my picture album.
That would be cool if Makototsai could send Tim or eastern a couple samples so then we will know if they are the same leds or not
Last edited by LeMoel; 10-16-2008 at 11:17 PM.
Now orry for making another thread but i wanted everyone to see this clearly... this was my vision
now I think that Xwings "nylon blades" would be ideal for this application. let me tell you why....
I know probly the biggest issue for looks is the "corn on the cob" look that we see only in person like eastern says.
Now think of this... Xwings Nylon blades have corbin film and poly P in them and are bright blades with luxeon leds, so if anything is to work then these blades can. and i have been told that they are pretty sturdy also
All right, I finally finished stringing together 93 of these RGB leds in parallel and I slid them into a TCSS 1” battle blade, which just has a standard diffuser tube in it.
The results are interesting.
The leds have a common anode and I ran them off a PWM RGB controller with Red at 2 ohms and Green and Blue at 1.5 ohm, powered by 6volts from my power supply.
The Primary colors look great and I compared them to other Luxeon blades with a Digital light meter “Luxmeter” set 3.5” away from the source.
LUX Readings:
RGB Blade
Green Middle – 276
Blue Middle – 345
Red Middle - 193
Green Luxeon V @ 9v – 1000ma Buck Puck
Base - 725
Middle - 257
End - 100
Blue Luxeon V @ 9v – 1000ma Buck Puck
Base - 810
Middle - 271
End – 125
Red Luxeon III @ 6v – (2) 700 ma Buck Pucks run in Parallel
Base - 258
Middle - 75
End – 55
Even side-by-side, the RGB blade is definitely brighter.
Where the problem comes in is when you start to mix colors. Primary colors look great but man once you start to mix do you get the corncob effect! In most of the pictures you don’t see it, but if I change the exposure settings on my camera down to –1.5 you can see what it looks like in real life.
This has me wondering if other pictures I have seen are really telling the truth.
I haven’t had time to figure this out yet; I suspect it’s what Eastern was talking about how all leds are not the same and getting the same batch is very important. But how do you accomplish this and how can you be guaranteed this? Finding out the hard way really sucks because this is a lot of work.
I’m going to check if it’s something like a voltage drop from my solder connections or if the heat from soldering damaged the leds in some way. But I’m too wiped out from soldering all day, so I’ll have to get to it later.
Great work. Thanks for putting in the time on that.
How do you like the brightness of the solid green or blue (primary colors)?
Even if you don't mix colors, it's cool to have a blade that you can choose from red/green/blue.
Last edited by Jedi-Diah; 10-26-2008 at 10:00 PM.
Is there a reason that you felt you needed to quote all that, with all the pics that were above your post?
It seems very uneccessary and is annoying to have to scroll though all that again for no point.
In order to see the Light,
you must sometimes risk the Dark.
TCSS MODERATOR
BLUE 8 Ready to ROCK and ROLL!
Hey! Good stuff, Logan! 93 LEDs - that's a lot. But it looks good. I see you've discover the joys of corn on the cob. If the primary colors blend well enough, then there shouldn't be too much of batch issue... but I would guess the mixing is what messes things up. There's really nothing besides the difuser to mix the colors - and I don't think that really does much anyway.
Either way, it's good stuff, glad you've taken this up!
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